Bonjour de la Suisse

Honking for joy!

2008-06-23T00:16:00.004+02:00

Okay, its 12:30 at night and the city is bursting with excitement and NOISE. In tonight's EuroCup match, Spain just beat the World Cup champions, Italy for the first time since 1920. It is a custom in Europe to drive around and honk you horn and wave your flag when your country wins a football match.

Geneva is very international and there has been lots of horn honking over the past couple of weeks. You always know when a match is over by all the racket. But tonight is a bit more than usual. Who knows how long it will last, there is a law that you can only honk for one hour after the game is over, but we have heard it all through the night before. We also live on one of the busiest streets in town, so we hear it more than most folks. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining at all… I actually like the honking, it’s so festive and really makes the city come alive!

The Spain/Italy match was the last of the four quarterfinal matches and they all have been exciting games and most have been upsets:

Germany (3) - Portugal (2)
Turkey (3) - Croatia (1)
Russia (3) - Netherlands (1)
Spain (4) - Italy (2)

On Wednesday the semifinals begin:
June 25th, Germany - Turkey
June 26th, Russia - Spain
June 29th, The FINAL

As you may have expected, my allegiance had changed once again. With Switzerland out and my pool basically shot now that the Netherlands are out too, I am now supporting Germany! So on Wednesday I hope to see lots of German flag waving and lots of horns honking for Deutschland!

Rollin', Rollin', Rollin'...

2008-06-22T21:38:00.005+02:00

Wow! This evening Madeleine really surprised us when she rolled over from her front to her back for the first time! We were doing a little "tummy time" when she rolled over all on her own - first to the right and then later to the left. Did I mention she did this all on her own? Now I know that this will never go on her CV or college applications, but we are so impressed! We knew we had a strong little girl, but wow! Maddie, your parents are so proud! :)

A Perfect Evening

2008-06-21T21:37:00.004+02:00

One of my favorite annual events in Geneva is the Fête de la Musique, which takes over the streets and squares of the city for three days every summer. Music is everywhere, with more than 50 stages in the park, in intimate squares, in the Old Town, and everywhere.

We headed out to Parc Bastion on Friday evening to meet our friend Mrs. Stophe (who is also moving back to the states about the same time we are) for dinner and some music. The weather was perfect; I just love warm evenings in the summer. We were having such a good time that we didn't even realize that it was after ten! Set up along the entire length of the park were big drums that were lit on fire when it got dark, it was so cool. There was also a huge torch burning at the entrance of the park. They would never allow all this open flame in a public place in the US, which made it even cooler.

We returned the next day and it was even more packed! We wandered through the Old Town to check out the music up there and then ended up back at the park. We met up with a big group of G's co-workers and I snuck off to hang out with some of my other friends, including Mrs. Stophe. We also ran into people we knew from around town. It seemed like everyone was there - but that is Geneva for you.

All in all it was a great weekend, as usual. I'm thrilled we were here to enjoy the festivities, and with good friends and the beautiful weather who could ask for anything better? :)

Here comes the sun...

2008-06-19T01:55:00.005+02:00

Hallelujah! Can I hear that one more time? Hallelujah!! A miracle has happened today... the sun has come out in dreary, rainy, overcast Geneva. After three months of bed rest and almost a week of hospitalization after Maddie was born I was ready to get out and enjoy a warm, sunny spring. But the weather had different plans.

Almost all of May and June have been downright bleak from a weather perspective, although it hasn't stopped Madeleine and I from getting out every day to enjoy the city for the last two months we are living here. We have been quite busy in fact. After all the grandmas had left we have been to numerous lunches and coffees with friends, lots of lakeside walks, a few doctor’s visits (three for me including the dentist and one for Maddie), and busy running lots of errands. We also went by my Toastmasters club to say goodbye, attended Mr. and Mrs. Kofi’s daughter’s 2nd birthday party, and attended a picnic/party that ended up in my friend Tigger’s living room thanks to the weather. We even went out to watch the start of the big sailboat race held each year on Lake Geneva, although that morning there wasn't even a hint of wind. But we had a nice time eating breakfast right on the water and watching the baby swans and ducks paddle by.

I’ve also gone out on my own for the first time since Madeleine was born. I went with Mrs. Kofi and Company to see the Sex and the City movie last week. It was great; not because it was an award winning film, but because it was like visiting old friends I hadn’t seen in a while. Then a few days later I went out for an hour to help celebrate my friend’s birthday at the Kapinski Bar that overlooks the lake. It was a gorgeous night and the view was incredible. But although it was great to get out by myself for a little while I was so happy to see my little girl again when I returned. I really missed her!

Now that the beautiful weather is here (and the forecast is for more of the same) I hope to be out more than usual, especially since we are moving back to California in less than two weeks! I still can't believe we are going. But having gorgeous weather for the last two weeks we're here is one of the best going away gifts we could get! :)

What happened?!?

2008-06-12T01:57:00.004+02:00

It was a sad day after Switzerland was eliminated from the EuroCup following a 2-1 loss to Turkey. The Swiss have lost both of their Group A matches, so I suppose they deserve to be out. As co-hosts to the games, I was really hoping they would make it at least to the quarter finals, but I guess it just wasn't meant to be. So now I'm at a loss as to who to pull for. In the football pool I'm in I have the Netherlands taking it all... so I guess now I'm cheering for the Orangemen! Go Holland!!

It's a small world after all

2008-06-11T15:57:00.001+02:00

Nearly three years ago, when we first moved to Switzerland I started my little blog to keep our friends and family back home up to date with our going-ons here in Europe. A fellow blogger, Sabine, a gal who had lived in Switzerland and had relocated to California (my opposite) found my blog and we would exchange comments from time to time.

Well, just to show you how small Switzerland is, it turns out that Sabine and I have a mutual friend here in Geneva, Jessica! When Sabine came out to visit this month we met up (with fellow blogger and my friend, Marcy) for coffee. What a small world!! We had a great time getting to know each other in person and I look forward to someday meeting up with her in California. The world really is a very small place. :)

Welcome Europe!

2008-06-07T01:55:00.008+02:00

Europe has descended upon our little city for the 2008 UEFA European Football Championships. Commonly referred to as Euro 2008, the championships will take place in 8 cities, throughout Switzerland and Austria from June 7th to June 29th. As one of the host cities, Geneva has pulled out all the stops to welcome fans who have come here from all over Europe to watch the games.

We don't actually have tickets to the games, but we are excited to be part of the action at the "Fan Zone" in Planpalais. The Fan Zone is where there is a huge screen set up so folks can watch the games as well as dozens of stands to get food and drinks. We went down to the Fan Zone on the opening night when Switzerland took on the Czech Republic. There were thousands of people there and I was a bit nervous to take Maddie in, but she slept through it all, even with screaming fans and air horns going off all around her. Now there is a true football fan in the making! :)

Unfortunately Switzerland lost their first match, but the tournament is still young. I'm really looking forward to the next few weeks of festivities that surround the games. Hopp Suisse!!

"The Fan Zone" at Planpalais in Geneva

We made it through security without a hitch!

Enjoying the game at "The Fan Zone"

It's that time of year again...

2008-06-01T08:27:00.001+02:00

While G's mom was out to visit she got to experience one of the great annual events of Europe - the Eurovision Song Contest. Since 1956 the contest has been a European institution and this year 43 countries participated. The band ABBA was discovered after winning the contest for Sweden in 1974.

Basically, how the contest works is each participating country submits one song, which is performed live in a television program and the countries then proceed to cast votes for the other countries' songs: nations are not allowed to vote for their own song. It is sort of like a huge, multi-cultural "American Idol". On the night of the final there are Eurovision parties that are hosted by different bars all around town, but this year we watched the competition on television at home.

This years Eurovision Contest was hosted by Serbia. My vote went to Switzerland (of course), but in the end Russia was declared the winner. Though mocked by many for it’s over the top glitz, the contest is loved by its many followers and it is consistently one of the most watched television programs of the year. It's true, most of the performances were pretty cheesy (there was even a pirate song performed by a group from Latvia), but the Eurovision Contest is always a lot of fun!

Grams comes to visit

2008-05-31T01:54:00.019+02:00

When my mom left Geneva I was so sad and was feeling more than a little overwhelmed. G was back at work and I was all on my own with Madeleine. But now that my mom had flown back to the US it was G's mom's turn to visit. Really we were only on our own for a day (a long day) and we did pretty well; going out to lunch with my friend, Cycle Guy, and doing a little shopping. But needless to say I was really looking forward to having G's mom out!

We went out to pick her up at the airport and it turned out to be quite a welcoming committee. Three of G's coworkers (including Mrs. Kofi) came down from the office to meet up with us at arrivals. Like my mom, G's mom has also been out to visit us in Geneva before so she was familiar with the city and I didn't feel the need to entertain her while she was here. But also like my mom, I wanted her to have a good time while she was here visiting.

The first few days we were busy running errands and meeting up with some of my friends for lunch. On Thursday we had lunch with “The Non-Desperate Housewives of Geneva” group who I hadn't seen since going into the hospital, so I was eager for them to meet little Madeleine. They were all thrilled to meet her! The next day we went out to Mrs. Kofi's house in Mies for lunch and took a walk to the local lakeside park.

That week was also our three year wedding anniversary, which we quietly celebrated at home. This was very different than the last two anniversaries that we celebrated in Venice, Italy and Hallstatt, Austria. True this year we aren't jet setting to some fabulous location, but for me it was my favorite anniversary yet; all because of our little girl.

That weekend was the Caves Ouvertes in the Geneva countryside. It is a yearly event where hundreds of wineries throughout the Geneva region welcome visitors for wine tasting. Last year we went and had a great time and we knew this was an event not to be missed. So the four of us took the train out to the neighboring town of Satigny and did a little wine tasting. The weather cooperated and it turned out to be a gorgeous day! On Sunday we took a nice long walk along the lake and indulged in some gelato at the best gelato place in Geneva, Gelato-mania in the Paquis.

We had Madeleine's photo for her passport but we were still waiting for her birth certificate before we could apply for her passport. It finally arrived but because of the Memorial Day holiday the US Embassy was closed and we had to wait until Tuesday to turn in all her paperwork. We had heard a lot about the guy that works at the Embassy, J. It turns out he has quite the reputation and is known throughout the expat community in Geneva as not being very nice and actually quite difficult to deal with. Well, everything I had heard was true... he really put us through the ringer and after almost an hour in a very hot room, we had completed the process. Now we just have to wait three weeks (hopefully) for her passport to arrive.

The last two days of G's mom's visit was full of appointments and errands. I wanted to get some things done that I really couldn’t do on my own like take Scout to the vet (for her rabies shot so she can return to the US) and get my haircut. We also went by the Clinique Generale-Beaulieu (so Grams could see where Maddie was born) and we stopped in G's office to show off Madeleine. It was a busy couple of days, but we had a great time!

G's mom was a huge help and I was really sad to see her go, especially since there were no other moms in the queue to come to visit. We were really going to be on our own... at least for another month before we head back to California. The day G's mom left Madeleine turned one month old. Where had the last four weeks gone?!? I feel like she is growing up so fast! I'm sure I will feel like this for the next... ummm... 18 years? ;)

Three generations

She is still so little!

Lunching with Mrs. Kofi

Ahhh... my favorite hold!

At the Caves Ouvertes wine tasting

Walking among the vineyards in the town of Satigny

Off to the next winery

Fast asleep

Strolling at the park along the lake

Our family by the lake

Hands up!

Spending time with grandma

Happily napping on mom's shoulder

Maddie found her thumb!

Howdy neighbor!

2008-05-27T12:34:00.005+02:00

Today is the annual Fête des Voisins (or European Neighbors' Day). It is a bid to get us to actually talk to our neighbors for longer than a ride together in the elevator. I think it is a fantastic idea and I would love to see it extended to the US. After all, there is (hopefully) no harm in having a chat with our closest residents and build community bridges.

This got me to thinking... how many of us actually know our neighbors? Back when we lived in Redwood City I didn't know anyone, or so I thought. The day of "The Great Flood" I found out that I worked with the gal who lived upstairs and she had lived right there near us for a year before we realized we were neighbors.

Here in Geneva I occasionally chat with an Englishman from upstairs and say a hearty "bonjour" to everyone I run into, but I really don't know anyone in the building. Since Madeleine has arrived I'm sure everyone knows us (especially after we got locked out during a rain storm and had to wait in the lobby for about 10 minutes while Maddie cried). I have started chatting more with the owner of the hair salon on the ground floor of the building. Rony, the coiffure (or hair dresser) is quite enamored with little Maddie and I see him quite often as we come and go.

When we return to California I would love to know our neighbors better. I would also love to see "Neighbors' Day" expand beyond Europe, especially to the US - I think it would make the world a better place!

Babies for Obama

2008-05-19T01:53:00.009+02:00

While my mom was in town we all participated in a "Geneva for Obama" gathering where we took a photo for the Bridges for Obama project where Obama supporters all over the world take group photos on bridges in support of the campaign. Little Madeleine, at just three weeks old, was by far the youngest one out there and I think she may be one of the youngest Obama supporters in the world!

You can see all of us on the far left of the group photo, which even made the local paper! My mom is holding the flag, I'm behind her with Maddie and G is behind us. The photo was taken on Ile Rousseau (or Rousseau Island), just a block from our house (the cars behind us are on the Mont-Blanc Bridge).

Obama ~ Change We Can Believe In!

Geneva Bridges for Obama picture

Go Obama!

Hello grandma!

2008-05-18T01:53:00.025+02:00

The toughest part about having a baby overseas isn't the language barrier or the unfamiliarity with the health system. The toughest part is being so far away from family. When I was put on bed rest both our families wanted to come to help out, but there really wasn't much for them to do. But now that the baby had arrived both my mom and G's mom were scheduled to come visit. They had decided to stagger their visits so they could help us out as much as possible.

My mom came out first, just four days after we came home from the hospital. We went out to the airport to pick her up and on the way home Madeleine went on her first train ride. That day was also the first time we saw Maddie suck her thumb. I was so happy my mom was here, both to meet Maddie and to help us out in those early days. For me it was important to have help just to get out so I could build my strength back up after being on bed rest for three months and after the cesarean. This was my mom's fourth trip to Geneva, so there wasn't much sightseeing on the agenda, but I was still determined to be sure she had a fun 10 days with us.

We were off to a busy start. On Saturday we went to watch my netball team play in their first tournament and then we spent the afternoon in the neighboring town of Carouge. The next day was Mother's Day! It was so nice to be able to celebrate my first Mother's Day with my mom, especially since Madeleine is her first grand child. We had a wonderful day which we spent down by the lake.

Monday was a holiday in Geneva, Whit Monday (or Pentecost Monday), yet another religious holiday. We decided to sneak into France so we could take the Télécabine (the cable car) up to the top of the Salève mountain that overlooks Geneva. I was a little nervous taking Maddie into France without a passport, but there was no one at the boarder so we just walked right over! (Needless to say, we made it back to Switzerland with no trouble).

The rest of the week was spent running errands and showing my mom a bit more of Geneva. We went out to the Clinique Generale-Beaulieu to drop off a book for the wonderful nurses that work there and to show my mom the hospital. I also has one final appointment with the gal who runs the psychology study at the Hôpitaux Universitaires de Genève Maternité (or the HUG) - the place where I was on bed rest for three weeks. We also met up with my friend, "Chill Out" for coffee at Starbucks (the hip place for all the new moms in Geneva).

The big event of the week though was getting Madeleine's passport picture. It was quite an endeavor! The US Embassy had recommended a photo shop in town that specializes in infant passport pictures. We went there on Tuesday, but Maddie was fast asleep and after about 30 minutes of trying to rouse her we left. The requirement for the photo is her eyes have to be open, mouth closed, and both ears showing, which can be quite a challenge for a baby.

The next day we returned... and she was again fast asleep! We decided to go to Starbucks around the corner to wait her out (so when she woke up we could get the photo), but after two hours she still could not be woken up and we went home in defeat! That afternoon when she was wide awake we jumped on the bus and practically ran down the street with her to make it to the shop before she drifted off again. The guy in the shop saw us and despite having several waiting customers in front of us, he swooped over and picked her up to get her picture taken. Viola! It was done. :)

That weekend we all participated in a "Geneva for Obama" gathering where we took a photo for the "Bridges for Obama" project where Obama supporters all over the world take group photos on bridges in support of the campaign. It was a bit drizzly, but we were there! That afternoon while G ran up to the Balexert mall my mom and I accidentally got locked out of the flat. Unfortunately it was pouring rain by that point, but we were only locked out for an hour or so... never a dull moment around here.

The 10 days sure did go by fast, and before we knew it we were headed back to the airport. My mom has never been so sad to leave Geneva before; she didn't want to leave little Madeleine. But we will be moving back to California in just six more weeks, so grandma will get some more Madeleine time very soon! :)

Three generations

Look, it's my new bouncy chair!

Our little family in Geneva

Out by the lake on Mother's Day

So very sleepy

It's time for a bottle

Drying off after bath time

In front of the Clinique Generale-Beaulieu

A good spot for a nap

Smile for the camera!

Just me & my bear

Up at "Le Salève" overlooking Lake Geneva

Look - There's Geneva!

Hanging out

There's no place like home :)

2008-05-05T01:51:00.008+02:00

After six days at the hospital we were ready to go home. It was exciting and a little nerve racking all at the same time. I felt like we had been spoiled at the Clinique Generale-Beaulieu and now we were about to be all on our own with our little one.

We had one final check from my doctor and from the pediatrician. Madeleine also had her picture taken for the official hospital birth announcement (just click on April 2008 to view). Even though we couldn't get her to stay awake, it is still a cute picture. In the afternoon Mrs. Kofi came to pick us up. Installing the car seat turned out to be a little more challenging than we thought, but eventually we got it secured so Maddie was safe and sound on the way home.

G had taken two weeks off and it was great that he was around the entire week after we came home from the hospital. We had a sage-femme (or midwife) who came out to our place every day for the first week. Our sage-femme, Sadrine was a life saver! She helped us out so much, weighing Maddie every day, helping me with breastfeeding issues, and simply being there to answer all of our questions.

One of the things the nurses at the hospital told me was to get out and about as soon as possible. The more I was able to get out and walk the better. So on our first full day home we walked to the Paquis for ice cream and then we walked back along the lake. Those first few days at home were fantastic, we were all settling into our new life together. Although we aren't getting too much sleep these days, we are just so happy to have our little girl home with us.

Thanks for everything! Our little family is heading home.

Is that Miss Suisse Romande? No, it's our ride home, Mrs. Kofi!

Madeleine slept the whole way.

Settling in at home.

Five star hospitality

2008-05-04T01:49:00.004+02:00

So when I decided to give birth at the Clinique Generale-Beaulieu I was told by Mrs. Kofi (who also gave birth there) that it would be like a vacation. Hmmmm... major surgery and birth like a vacation? Well, besides the abdominal pain and struggling to walk again, it almost was!

I was in the hospital for six days (four of which were without a room mate) which is standard in Switzerland after a cesarean. It was really great because it gave me time to recover (it took two days for me to take my first steps) and for us as a little family time to get to know each other. It also gave G and I time to savor the first few days with Maddie without worrying about anything. We had lots of visitors while we were in the hospital which really made me happy. So many people wanted to meet Madeleine.

Everything about the hospital was great. The care we got was excellent. The staff was fantastic, the nurses and mid-wives were so supportive and helped me so much with everything from breastfeeding to building our confidence as parents. The nursery was first class, with stations to weigh, bathe, change and dress all the babies. Everything is provided for you (even all the clothes) and there is always someone there to help out.

But my biggest surprise was how delicious the food was. I would have paid good money to eat that hospital food in a nice restaurant. That is right... delicious hospital food (now there are three words you don't hear together too often). And on top of that we were given a special Champaign dinner for G and I one night right there in our room. It was fantastic; five star all the way!

Although it wasn't quite the same as being on vacation, having Madeleine at Clinique Generale-Beaulieu was an amazing experience. If I had my way I would have all my future kids there. But somehow I doubt our insurance is going to pay for plane tickets to Switzerland! :)

Madeleine at one day old

Hi dad!

Our room with a view

She is just so cute!

So happy together

Our five star Champaign dinner

Bon Appetit!

One last sip!

Lots of kisses

G in the nursery

Time for a nap!

Our little family

Happy Birthday Madeleine!

2008-04-29T23:43:00.004+02:00

After months of waiting and worrying, of planning and praying, of guarded anticipation... the day had finally arrived. It was truly a miracle. We had made it to full term and now we were on our way to the hospital for the birth of our little one. Because of a previous surgery, we were scheduled for a cesarean which they prefer to schedule a couple weeks ahead of the due date just to be safe. We made it 38 weeks and two days - right on schedule. In the end, all the bed rest was worth it!

We arrived at the hospital at 7am to prepare for the birth. The morning was a flurry of activity and before I knew it I was being wheeled to the operating room. G was prepped in another room, but he was right by my side by the time they started. I was so overwhelmed with emotion.

At 10:03am our little Madeleine Grace was born. "It's a girl!" She was held up quickly over the screen so I could see her. She was so beautiful. I was so overwhelmed with love and joy I cried. She was then taken to get cleaned up and her vitals were checked... she was perfect! Then there was time for a quick picture before she left with the pediatrician and G for some more testing - all was okay. She was a healthy 3.725 kg and 50 cm long.

While Madeleine and G were off doing all the tests, I was being sewn up (which took about 45 minutes). While I was in recovery G and Madeleine came in to see me. I just couldn't believe how beautiful our daughter was and I started to tear up again. It was a couple of hours until I was brought up to my room. The afternoon was filled with phone calls home (very early for our family back in California, but nobody seemed to mind). Gary also got lessons in changing and dressing little Maddie. The day went by amazingly fast! I have to say I am so in love with this new little person! I already cannot imagine my world without her.

Welcome to the world little Madeleine!

On our way to the hospital

Our first family photo, still on the operating table!

Little Maddie on the scale - she weighed in at 3.725kg

Madeleine's first day

Madeleine and I resting in the recovery room

The three of us in the recovery room

Back home... for now! :)

2008-04-28T21:54:00.003+02:00

Well, we got to the hospital this evening, checked in, got a room assignment, met with the anesthesiologist, had a full check-up including blood work, and after an hour of monitoring the baby's heart rate and my contractions we were sent home! We were told to return in the morning at 7am. I have to say I was relieved when they told me I could sleep in my own bed tonight! So we go back tomorrow... but I'm pretty sure we won't be sent home until the little one is here! :) I can't wait!!

We're off to the hospital...

2008-04-28T15:43:00.003+02:00

The big day is scheduled for tomorrow morning and we are off to the hospital this evening! I'm overjoyed, nervous, anxious, excited, and still in a bit of disbelief. I can't wait for tomorrow!! :)

We made it to full term!!

2008-04-21T21:06:00.006+02:00

Twelve weeks ago when I was first put on bed rest, the thought of making it to full term seemed like such an impossible goal that I tried not to think about it too much. I was afraid to get my hopes up too high in the beginning. I kept my goals within reach; 28 weeks, 32 weeks, 34 weeks. But really, each week was a huge accomplishment for us.

Now that the days have slowly passed into weeks and the weeks have slowly added up, we have made it to that magic number that had seemed so far… 37 weeks. Full term! I cannot express just how thankful we are that we made it this far. All the bed rest and positive thinking has worked! And even though it hasn’t been easy, every minute has been worth it!

I’m still on bed rest, but now since we are no longer at risk for having a preterm baby we can give birth at the Clinique Generale-Beaulieu, (which is sort of like the 5 star hospital of Geneva) instead of the HUG (Hôpitaux Universitaires de Genève) where I was hospitalized before (where the NICU is located). We have also gone back to my original OBGYN who is associated with the Beaulieu Clinique.

We have also met with our pediatrician. Here in Switzerland you have a prenatal appointment with the pediatrician before the baby is born. Then they are present at the birth! I think it is a great system. We already know who is going to be taking care of little Rumi and we really like the doctor.

Now even though I’m still on bed rest, this last week I was told I can get up a little bit more to help get my muscles back in a little bit of shape in time for the delivery. So last Thursday I was very brave and ventured out to Starbucks which is about 2 blocks from our flat to meet up with the girls from the “The Non-Desperate Housewives of Geneva” group. The walk took about 15 minutes and I was careful to take it as easy as possible. It took a lot out of me, but it was such a boost to be able to get out of our flat!!! That has been the only time I’ve left the house this week (besides to see the doctor). I’ve been trying to walk a little more around the apartment, but I'm very careful not to do too much. I want to be ready for when the little one arrives, and it won’t be long now! We can hardly wait!! :)

April showers

2008-04-13T15:09:00.017+02:00

I never thought I would have a baby shower, simply because for the last eleven weeks we have been living day to day trying to make it to full term. So when some friends of mine talked about throwing one I was thrilled, although a tad bit reluctant since I didn’t know if I would make it to the day of the shower before I gave birth. But it gave me a good goal to stay focused on and something to look forward to! To my happy surprise, two showers were planned! I was so touched and so happy to have such thoughtful friends.

The first shower was thrown by my friend Cathy for the luncheon group we belong to called “The Non-Desperate Housewives of Geneva”. They are a great group of girls I started hanging out with about six moths ago. Cathy organized everything and cooked a fabulous lunch for everyone. The shower was at our flat, since I’m still on bed rest and it was a little too soon for me to venture out. It was so nice to see all the girls. The lunch was delicious and the gifts were so cute! The afternoon was wonderful, I had the best time hanging out with everyone and it really lifted my spirits! (Thanks for the photos Sophia!)

The Non-Desperate Housewives of Geneva shower

The next Sunday Mr. & Mrs. Kofi threw a shower for us at their house in the town of Mies. Yes, I actually left our flat (other than for doctors appointments) for the first time in eleven weeks! I must say I was a bit nervous. But Mr. Kofi came to pick us up (no train for me yet!) and they had a nice spot on their couch all set for me. We had a nice lunch together and then everyone else came for the afternoon “mixed” (guys & girls) shower. Mrs. Kofi did so much work; she made a ton of food and organized the whole thing.

It was a lovely afternoon. Most of the people who came were from G’s office as well as a few other Geneva friends. Most of the folks I hadn’t seen in some time, so it was really great to reconnect with everyone. The weather was beautiful and we ended up sitting out in the garden to chat away the afternoon and open gifts. Just to be able to sit in the sunshine was fantastic for me!

At Mr. & Mrs. Kofi's house

Besides actually making it through eleven weeks of bed rest, these showers have been the highlight of the last few months for me! It’s been hard being on bed rest with our family so far away. That’s why I am so thankful to have such wonderful people here in Geneva that care so much. That’s really what friends are for!

Still holding on - Weeks 32 to 34

2008-04-06T15:08:00.013+02:00

Wow – we have made it to week 34! This is a huge milestone for us and one of our big goals. I’ve now been on restricted bed rest for 9 weeks, but we are still going strong. Every ultrasound has shown that my cervix is staying closed but this past week it has shortened to 0.6cm, which means I have to stay on bed rest a bit longer than I thought… but I’m willing to do whatever it takes to help the little one stay inside as long as possible, hopefully until May. Every day is so important!

The last three weeks have definitely had their ups and downs. Spring has officially begun, ushered in by 4 days of snow! G went to pick up the stroller & car seat. Unfortunately I accidentally reserved a “compact” car for him and the stroller box wouldn’t fit in the car, so it was a bit of a hassle for him! But he was a trooper and now it is all assembled and ready to go. He also bought some of the first baby things we may need and packed our hospital bag, just in case.

It was good he took care of all that when he did, because on the next day, Easter Sunday, G pulled his back so bad that he couldn’t even stand up! It was so scary with both of us completely immobilized and I had no idea how to help him. Being Easter Sunday, almost everyone we knew was out of town (Easter is a four day weekend here so most folks are off traveling). I managed to pull one of the pads from the bed onto the floor so at least he had a place to lie down, but he was in excruciating pain and I knew we had to do something.

Fortunately Mr. Kofi was in town and when I called him to ask about what pain relievers I could get without a prescription here, he immediately contacted “SOS Médecins” for us. SOS Médecins is a service that sends a doctor to your house and is much better than having to deal with an ambulance and going to the hospital.

The doctor gave G a shot and prescribed some medicine for him. What a lifesaver! Another one of our friends who was in town came to our rescue and picked up the prescription for us (since I couldn’t do it). I tell you, what would we do without our friends – they really saved the day and I am so thankful they were there for us!

After a couple days G was up and around again and by mid week he was feeling much better. Thank goodness I didn’t go into preterm labor! We really would have been in trouble then! Looking back it was a bit funny, both of us flat on our backs trying to reassure each other and comfort each other. It’s an Easter we will never forget!

Things settled down after that, thankfully! I had three more weeks of visitors who brought lunches and delicious pastries! I also am continuing to talk to the psychologist who I was assigned to in the hospital for the study on at-risk mothers. I talk to her about once a week when we go into the hospital for our ultrasounds. She is great and is also very happy with our progress!

Oh, and I’ve forgotten to mention our nicknames for the belly! G has been calling my belly “little Obus” (after his nickname of Obus) for quite a while. I like the name but haven’t really been calling my belly that, usually I just talk to the “baby”. But in the last few weeks I've been calling my belly Ruemont or Rumi for short. Where did this come from? Well, G’s workmates thought we should name the baby “Rue-Mont Cinq Blucher” after our address at 5 Rue du Mont-Blanc. It hasn’t made our list of possible names, but now I’ve been calling my belly Rumi which I really like!

week 32 ~~week 33 ~~ week 34

Settling into bed rest at home - Weeks 29 to 31

2008-03-16T11:36:00.011+01:00

Home sweet home! After three weeks in the hospital it was great to be back home. At first it was a little scary, but now I’ve settled in and am more confident as the weeks slowly pass by. There was a bit of an adjustment phase though, for both G and I.

Our first challenge was to try to find pads for the bed to make it more comfortable for me. After two weekends of searching, the only ones G could find were almost 1,000 CHF! Thankfully a guy from his work had a couple pads that worked great and let us borrow them. It really made all the difference.

G has been wonderful. He does all the shopping, cooks all the meals, and cleans the house. For the first week he was even coming home from work to help fix lunch for me, but I told him if it is prepared ahead of time I can just get it out of the fridge. We have decided to get a cleaning lady because it is just too much for him working full time. She is fantastic! And now I’m not tempted to do anything I’m not supposed to be doing and just focus on staying “quiet”.

These last three weeks have gone by fast, mostly because of all the visitors I’ve had since coming home. 26 people have stopped by (some more than once) and have brought lunch, pastries, coffee, and great conversation! The highlight of the three weeks was meeting my friend’s new baby, Donovan. He is so cute! It is still hard to believe sometimes that we are going to have a new little person here soon too.

We have also continued our Sunday ritual from the hospital of taking a pregnancy picture every week. Since Sunday is the day our week “changes” we celebrate by taking a few pictures. The reality is we don’t know when the little one is going to arrive, so we want to have a record of our progress (and I’m only standing up for about 5 minutes, so I’m not breaking the rules of my bed rest too much).

I’ve been on restricted bed rest for 6 weeks and so far so good! We are making remarkable progress and even though it has been long, every day the little one can stay inside is worth it. We are staying positive and keeping our fingers crossed for at least 6 more weeks to get us to full term! :)

29 weeks ~~ 30 weeks ~~ 31 weeks

You are sending me where?!?

2008-02-28T11:54:00.007+01:00

On February 1st I was scheduled for another ultrasound to check my cervix. I had already been on bed rest for a week but was feeling good about my appointment. This was one of the only doctor’s visits that G missed, since he was still in Köln on his business trip (although he was due back that evening). Well, things were not to go as smoothly as I had hoped.

I had already had shots to help the baby’s lungs mature just in case he or she came early, so I knew I was at risk for a premature birth, I just didn’t realize how much danger we were in. At the appointment my cervix measured just 1.1cm and had started to funnel (or open) at the top. My doctor immediately said. “I’m admitting you.” “Admitting me? Where? To the hospital?” I was now starting to freak out.

Here I was, by myself in a country where I don’t have full command of the language and didn’t know how the system worked, had no way to call anyone in the US, and was worried I would be delivering my baby at any minute. I was rushed over in a taxi to the Hôpitaux Universitaires de Genève Maternité (or the HUG) and was admitted right away… my new doctor was already waiting for me. The admittance process ran pretty smoothly and I was in my room within the hour. I was happy to learn that most of the people spoke English, so if I got stuck with my French I could still be understood.

G arrived that night and I was so relieved to see him. He stayed as long as he could and returned first thing in the morning. I was told that I would have to stay between 3-5 weeks and stay very “quiet” (the French term for bed rest). I was only allowed to get up to use the bathroom and to take a shower (thank goodness for small things). The staff was fantastic, the mid-wives were so nice and I really got the chance to improve my French (and help some of them with their English).

I settled in as best I could and quickly learned the daily routine. I had gone into the hospital with just the clothes on my back so G brought me everything I needed… my toiletries, books to read, my i-Pod, my French dictionary, even needlepoint. I needed things to do because my room, although it was a private room, was quite dreary. The only English station was CNN International, which gets old pretty fast. The other big issue with my room was there was construction work literally on the other side of my window, so I couldn’t open the shades when the workmen where there during the week and even on the weekend I couldn’t see the sky.

There was also no internet access which we tried to solve, but at least G brought me a computer loaded with movies and “Heroes” so I had something to watch. G also brought me extra food to eat, since the menu at the hospital was a bit bland. He brought fruit, milk, and cheese almost every day. He was a saint, coming out to the hospital twice a day to bring me things and just hang out.

My other lifesaver was all the visitors that came! In my three weeks in the hospital I had over 20 visitors, many of whom came more than once! They brought me all kinds of things; books, magazines, flowers, portable game systems (PSP & Nintendo), DVDs, Sudoku, food, and even Chinese New Year stuff to liven up the room a little! I was so touched by all the visits and everyone’s generosity. I also received tons of care packages from the US… I loved reading letters and American magazines from home.

Another nice surprise was that I was selected for a psychology study (I was at a teaching hospital after all). The study was to see if regular chats with a psychologist helps women who are at risk of pre-term delivery to make it to full term. I figured, why not? It was one more person to talk to and it helped to pass the time. The psychologist was very nice and I really looked forward to our chats. I also was visited by a lady from a local church who came to see me about once a week. She was nice too and it was nice to chat with her about staying positive and visualizing making it to full term.

My biggest challenge was to stay positive, but somehow I managed to do just that most of the time. I guess that impressed the doctor and the mid-wives who said I was one of the most positive patients they had had in a while. But I knew that sulking and feeling sorry for myself was not going to help our baby, so I did what I had to do and kept my spirits up as much as I could.

So after three weeks of “keeping quiet” and being monitored, I was told that my cervix had stabilized (it was still 1.1cm) and I could go home to continue to be on bed rest. I was 28 weeks along now and in a much better place if I did go into labor early. I have to admit I was scared to death about going home, but I knew I was just a phone call away if I needed anything. And I was sad to leave the wonderful mid-wives that had taken such good care of me these last few weeks. But I was also thrilled to finally be headed home and to sleep in my own bed next to G again.

Trying to keep my spirits up

Week 27 in my dreary hospital room - notice the construction site on the other side of the window?

Week 28 and ready to head home

A sudden change of plans...

2008-01-31T02:36:00.005+01:00

The day after we arrived back in Geneva from Burgundy we had a doctor’s visit with my OBGYN. During a visit in December I was told to “take it easy” due to my cervix being on the “short end” of the scale. I was to stop exercising, not to take stairs, not to lift anything heavy, and not to walk too much. Even with our travels I had modified my activities and was following her instructions to a tee.

Now it was late January and during my most recent ultrasound it showed that my cervix had shortened to just 2cm (normal is 3-5cm). So my doctor put me on bed rest at home and forbid me to travel. Well, this drastically changed our plans for moving back to California.

We were set to move back the last week of February, which is just one month away, now it looks like we are here until after the baby is born in May. We even asked, “If we were to get me on a plane tomorrow, could I make the journey back to the US?” “Absolutely not” she told us. So it looks like we are here for a few more months.

The other plans that suddenly changed were the few remaining trips I had booked that I now had to cancel. Next week I was supposed to visit my step-brother in Weimar, Germany where he had moved to a couple of months ago. Then I was to meet G in Köln, Germany for Karnival (cleverly disguised as a business trip). I also had plans to visit Andorra (the last of the “small countries” I have yet to see), a short trip to Paris to visit a high school friend who lives there, and finally to Northern Ireland to do a little genealogy research. I had to scrap all my plans and trade it for our not so comfy couch. It is probably for the best… I don’t want to overexert myself 24 weeks into my pregnancy.

The last week of January G went to Köln on his business trip. At first he didn’t want to go, but I insisted. It was only for three days and it really isn’t that far from Geneva in case he had to rush back for any reason. (He did cancel his upcoming business trip to the US, because it was just too far with me on bed rest.) I was bummed to have missed the festivities in Köln, but it sounded like G had a good time. His costume for Karnival was “The Duke of Darkness” and I thought the pictures turned out great!

I was also happy to hear that there were a ton of “hippie” costumes this year. We went as hippies two years ago (we bought the real deal from Height-Ashbury on a visit home) when the costume was completely nonexistent (clowns and cowboys dominated the scene). Did we start a trend? I like to think so, but that may just be in my mind. Still, it’s pretty groovy!

Partying it up at Karnival in Köln

A January full of travel

2008-01-20T12:25:00.034+01:00

Glacier Express, Switzerland

Our very first trip of 2008 was on the Glacier Express, one of Switzerland's most famous train excursions. It runs from Zermatt to St. Moritz, but we hopped on in Brig, which is much closer to Geneva than going all the way to Zermatt.

The Glacier Express has been operating since 1930 and is billed as "the world's slowest express train", averaging just 36 km/h (22 mph). Since we have moved to Switzerland this famous train journey has been one of the big things on our list of things to do. We decided to pull out all the stops and booked first class tickets on a panoramic car with windows that extend to the roof.

The trip did not disappoint… it was really quite elegant with first class service and delicious food. We traveled over historic bridges, through beautiful landscapes, mountain forests, Alpine meadows, and scenic valleys. We arrived in the posh resort town of St. Moritz in the evening and walked the snow lined streets to our very nice hotel. The next day there was time for a bit of shopping and a walk around town before we caught the regular train back to Geneva.

All aboard!

We arrived in St. Moritz!

City of San Marino, San Marino

The second week of January G was off to the US for work, so I decided to travel to little San Marino, which is completely surrounded by Italy and claims to be the oldest constitutional republic in the world. I actually didn’t realize it was a country until a few months ago. Being the third smallest country in Europe (only Vatican City and Monaco are smaller), it naturally went on my list of places to go!

I made the 7 hour train journey from Geneva and found myself in the Italian town of Rimini where I had to catch a bus to the capital city of San Marino. Little did I know there are only 5 bus trips a day and I narrowly made the last one! The trip took 1 1/2 hours and by the time we got the end of the line on the outside of the town wall, I was the only passenger left! It was dark, foggy, and completely deserted and I had no clue how to even get inside the town walls, let alone my hotel!

I wandered around for a while and was thinking this may not have been the best idea. But I got some help from the owner of another hotel in town and soon I found my way safe and sound to my hotel. The next day I explored this small hilltop capital city (still engulfed in fog) and even got my passport stamped (for 10 Euros!). Soon I was on my way back. I didn’t stay long, but there wasn’t much more to see. And while the town was really cute, I was keen to get out of the fog!

The cute town of San Marino

Self portrait in front of the Town Hall in Palazzo Publico

Burgundy, France

With G back form the US we decided to rent a car and spend a long weekend in the French region of Burgundy, a region rich in history, culture and geography. Our home base was the cute little town on Beaune, just outside Dijon. This area is known for its fine cuisine and wine, but on this trip I couldn’t indulge in the later (although I did have a few sips from G’s glass).

We wanted to explore the countryside and see some of the out of the way sights. We ended up visiting the isolated, medieval Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay, one of the oldest abbeys in France (it was founded in 1118). It was such an interesting and peaceful place to wander around and we had almost the whole place to ourselves.

Next we drove to the town of Vézelay to make the pilgrimage, like thousands of others before us, to the Basilica of Ste. Madeleine where the medieval masses came to see the relics of Mary Magdalene. The Basilica is also famous for the three Crusades that started from here. We ventured down to the crypt, which is actually the foundation of the original 9th century church and the location of the famous relics (there isn’t much to see of the relics, but they are there). What a great experience, I felt like we were traveling back in time!

Back in Beaune we ate like kings and found the town so cute! The biggest sight there is the medieval charity hospital, Hôtel-Dieu, which is now a museum. On our way back to Geneva we stopped in Dijon for a few hours to get a taste of the city… it was actually quite big and crowded, much different than the three days we spent in the quiet countryside. Overall we had a wonderful time and it was just the get away we needed.

Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay

Outside the Basilica of Ste. Madeleine

Hôtel-Dieu in Beaune

Driving "Smart"

2008-01-10T12:29:00.006+01:00

With our time in Europe coming to an end, we made a list of all the things we still wanted to do and see. When we realized we hadn’t driven a Smart car yet, we immediately booked one through our car sharing service, Mobility, and on our next free Saturday we zipped around Geneva in style!

We didn’t really know where to go in our tiny car (and let me tell you … it was TINY - measuring only 250 centimetres (98.4 in) in length - as long as the width of an average car), so we drove around until we ended up in nearby Carouge where there is a giant baby store that we checked out, mostly out of curiosity. After being there for about 10 minutes G declared that he was “overwhelmed”, so we didn’t stay too long. ;)

On the following Monday I decided to head to nearby France to the lakeside city of Evian, made famous by Evian water. There really isn’t much to the town (blink and you have driven through it), but I bought some water and hung out by the lake for a bit before driving back. It was a nice day, even if it was somewhat uneventful.

Cheers to a happy & healthy 2008!!

2008-01-01T16:18:00.005+01:00

We arrived in Geneva on December 30th, just in time to get our plans organized for New Years Eve. Could the year really be over already?!? It certainly has been a blast for us and I was sad to see 2007 end. But bigger and better things lay ahead for us in 2008!

Now that I’m just about 22 weeks pregnant, we decided to skip the rowdy party scene that we had participated in the year before and opted for a more mellow evening. We started with dinner with friends at a local Indian restaurant (where we know the owner) and then we headed over to a bar called Lola’s where we met up with some more of our friends. We rang in the New Year with glasses held high and big smiles all around.

Yes, I have a feeling 2008 is going to be great! It’s also going to be filled with big changes for us. We are moving back to California in February and then the little one arrives in May. Although I know we are going to really miss living in Geneva, I am so excited to start this new chapter in our lives.

Happy New Year to everyone and I hope you are looking forward to the New Year as much as we are!!

Wishing you all the best for 2008!
Bonne Année!!

Driving through Jolly Old England

2007-12-31T16:17:00.019+01:00

After getting back from the Maldives, we were only in Geneva one day (for an ultrasound) before we were headed off again. This time we were going to England to visit with G’s cousin and his family and to see some of the sights in the UK.

Our first stop was the village of Burwell where G’s cousin lives. We had rented a car at the airport and it was the first time either G or I had ever driven a car with the steering wheel on the right side. I let G drive first. He got the hang of it pretty quickly and I was impressed, although it was a bit harrowing at first. We were staying at the same family run bed & breakfast we stayed at two years earlier when we came up to visit the family for Christmas 2005. The owner remembered us and gave us a warm welcome.

Our time in Burwell was great. It was so nice to catch up with G’s cousin and his wife and their two girls, J & H. We got to check out all the cool things the girls got for Christmas, hear all about their riding lessons and we learned how to play a Nintendo game where you take care of a puppy… I wasn’t too good at it! We were also one of the first people to dine in the new dining room, part of the new extension of their house that has been in the works for some time now. I was thrilled to see it first hand after all the pictures. We had such a nice time but the time flew by! Soon we were on our way to Bath.

Now I figured it would take us about 2-3 hours to reach Bath, and I was in no hurry to leave Burwell, so I kept stalling and trying to stay just a little bit longer. Well, I was very wrong! It took us over 6 hours to make the journey (not including a side trip into Oxford)! To my defense, there was a major accident that side tracked us for an hour, but still, I had grossly underestimated the trip! But we made it!

So what is the first thing we did in Bath? We headed out of town and drove to Stonehenge! I had visited Stonehenge with Chica and Fi last summer, but I wanted G to see the world famous prehistoric monument for himself. I didn’t mind going back at all; my only complaint was it was bitterly cold!! But that didn’t stop the hordes of tourists (including us) who were there and we still had fun!

Back in Bath, we were ready to take in all that this charming, beautiful city had to offer, with its Georgian style and aristocratic charms. The city was founded by the Romans who built baths and a temple around naturally-occurring hot springs that still bubble up from the earth today.

The Roman Baths were our first stop, which turned out to be a fascinating tour back in time. Now-a-days you can’t actually go in the water (a new modern spa just opened this year for relaxing in), but at the end of the tour you can drink the warm, awfully curative Bath water from an elegant fountain… it’s pretty awful tasting, but we had to try it! We spent the rest of our time on a city tour, shopping, and wandering around the city. I even made G go into "Jollys", which claims to be one of the world’s oldest department stores.

From our home base in Bath we headed to Wales for a quick visit to Cardiff. We took a walk around Cardiff Castle and stopped in for coffee and a bite to eat at a trendy little café. Now when I say quick, I mean it, because no sooner had we finished our food we were headed back to England. We were headed back to London and we really wanted to see Windsor Castle before we were to fly back to Geneva the next day.

We made it to Windsor in great time (compared to our drive to Bath) and by now we were both masters of the right hand driving! We toured Windsor Castle, which we both really liked… It is the largest inhabited castle in the world and is the oldest in continuous occupation. Needless to say, it took a while to get through! For dinner we ate at a traditional English pub (something we had been trying to do for several nights but couldn’t seem to find a good one). It was delicious and the perfect way to end our tour through southern England.

Family picture

Freezing at Stonehenge

At the Roman Baths

Reflection off the water

So many things to see and do in Bath!

Coffee in Wales

One of the Cardiff Castle animal sculptures that guard the castle walls

Windsor Castle

Another shot of Windsor Castle

Dinner at a traditional English pub in Windsor

Our favorite airline!

Paradise found!

2007-12-26T16:16:00.035+01:00

Sun, sand, and sea… that’s what the Maldives are all about. We wanted to go somewhere a little different (and warm) for our last “big” trip of our stay here in Europe, and the Maldives sounded perfect! It is the "European Hawaii” and it is an absolute paradise. The Maldives are made up of over 1000 pristine, tranquil, tropical islands with white sandy beaches, swaying palm trees, and brilliant turquoise lagoons.

The Maldives are truly unique. 99% of the country is covered by the sea and it holds the record for being the flattest country in the world, with a maximum natural ground level of only 2.3 m (7½ ft). Situated in the Indian Ocean, southwest of Sri Lanka, it’s a major destination for scuba divers, who come for the fabulous reefs and the wealth of marine life.

I couldn’t scuba dive on this trip (although G could), but I could snorkel. We decided to stay on the small, rustic island of Vilamendhoo (which only measures 900m or ½ mile long by 250m wide), based on its house reef which is one of the best for snorkeling and we weren’t disappointed! There are over 1200 species of fish in the Maldives, and the snorkeling was about the best I had ever experienced… but before we could do that we had to get there first.

We flew through London (surprise, our luggage didn’t get lost this time). From there we had a ten hour flight to the capital city of Malé (pronounced: "Maa-lay"). We had given up our two seats together for a family, thinking this would bring us good karma on the trip… no such luck. I got stuck next to a couple who made-out for most of the flight and my headset was completely broken. We didn’t even get a complimentary drink for our troubles (I would have given mine to G)… oh well, we were headed to paradise!

Once there, we flew to Vilamendhoo by sea plane, which was very cool. Unfortunately we landed in what seemed to be the middle of a monsoon! But the staff welcomed us with flower leighs, welcome drinks, and a giant pink umbrella that we got to keep all week (but hoped we wouldn’t need too much). We were exhausted after all the traveling, so we just settled into our beachfront bungalow and relaxed for the rest of the day, thrilled we were finally here.

At dinner we were shown our assigned table we would have for the rest of the week. Good thing; it was a table for two. Bad thing; it was smack in the middle of the buffet line! No joke… it was the ONLY table in the area where people were getting their food. Now I normally don’t complain about anything, but this was ridiculous! Thankfully we were reassigned to a 4-person table and ended up meeting a really nice couple from South Africa who G dove with most of the week.

The next day was fantastic, the sun was out and it seemed that all of our troubles were behind us. In the morning, G did his check dive and I got the lay of the land (it only takes about 20 minutes to walk all the way around the island). After, we had a nice lunch out at the beach bar and we met our neighbors, a really nice couple from London. We spent the afternoon snorkeling and lounging around, which was very nice.

But the day still had a couple surprises for us. First we somehow managed to lock our key in our bungalow and then we found out that at the “Adventure Center” the only speedboat on the island (as well as the only jet ski) were both broken and would not be fixed for at least a week. I was bummed because the speed boat was the only way to go on further a field snorkeling trips to see the manta rays and whale sharks (which is what I was most looking forward to doing). It turned out that we weren’t really in the manta ray or whale shark season anyway, so in the end it didn’t really matter.

Wednesday was here already, so we took advantage of the good weather and snorkeled for most of the morning. The conditions were great; we saw so many amazing fish and even a sea turtle! But our bad luck was still with us…. We thought we had lost our bungalow key altogether on out outing and we searched the water to see if we could locate it (there is a $100 fee for lost keys). No luck. G decided to head to reception to tell them the news. , Unbeknownst to him, he had cut his foot pretty badly on the coral and only realized it when a woman in reception pointed out the huge puddle of blood he was standing in!! Meanwhile, back at the bungalow, I discovered that the key had been sitting on our front porch all morning! We didn’t have to pay for a new key, but after that the entire staff knew exactly who we were! Thankfully the rest of the afternoon was mellow. I did some more snorkeling and hanging out on the beach and G went out on his first dive.

The next day we went on our first “excursion” which was a snorkeling trip away from the island. Our London neighbor was there too along with a couple of Turkish girls. Again, the snorkeling was fantastic with more fish and we even saw a couple of good sized eels. G went diving in the afternoon and I lounged on the beach with our London neighbors where we met a couple of guys from Lausanne (which is only ½ hour from Geneva). When G got back at dusk, we saw baby sharks swimming around just off our beach! We ended up seeing them a few more times at dusk and early in the morning. They were really cool to see.

That night we had planned a romantic dinner on the beach which we had to reserve in advance. As we walked to dinner, not 10 minutes before our reservation the skies opened up and it began to rain!! Our table was moved inside (where some kind of construction work was going on) and we were treated to some very loud 80’s rap music (I think it was to cover up the noise form the construction). Not exactly the most romantic evening, but we took it all in stride and reserved a beach table for the following night.

The next day the rain cleared up and we did our usual; a little snorkeling, lunch at the beach bar, and relaxing on the beach near our bungalow. I was really looking forward to dinner, but while we were getting ready I somehow managed to give myself a 220 volt shock from the curling iron. I felt it all the way up to my shoulder! Because I was 20 weeks pregnant we ended up on the phone with our insurance company and paying a visit to the island doctor. What a fiasco!

Turns out I was just fine, so it was off for a second try at a romantic candlelight beach dinner. Some things are just not meant to be. Because the winds had kicked up quite fiercely, they put our table in the bushes outside the restaurant (not exactly on the beach, but in the sand nonetheless). The poor waiter re-lit our candles about 8 times and by the time desert arrived, it was pouring rain again! The saving grace of the night (at least for me) was it was disco night on the island, so after dinner we sat in the bar, laughed our bad luck away and did a little dancing!

The next day there was a dive trip planned to where you supposedly could see whale sharks and manta rays. I was going to go along too, but just snorkel while everyone else dove. But because of weather it was canceled at the last minute and instead the dive boat was headed somewhere else. G still went diving but I literally jumped onto another boat that was leaving at the same time, but headed for an excursion to a local island.

They let me join the excursion, which turned out to be a very interesting look into Maldivian culture. But because I thought I was going diving, I didn’t have a dime on me! About 2 hours of the afternoon was set aside for shopping and since it was drizzling, I couldn’t even sit outside and wait for everyone else to shop. The village people were really hawking their wears and I felt so bad perusing their shops and not buying anything. Our German tour guide took pity on me and lent me $20, so I could at least buy a few trinkets here and there. It turned out G had a better afternoon than I did; he said the diving was good and that he actually got a fleeting glimpse of a manta ray! I was thrilled for him!

On our last day we got in some more snorkeling and beach time. It was the 23rd of December, and since it was the eve of Christmas Eve, that night the resort decided to turn on their Christmas lights early. What a spectacle! It was like the Griswold Christmas had hit the tropics… there were literally lights everywhere, covering almost any surface that didn’t move!! Some of the lights even played music (which was super cheesy, but funny). I honestly have never seen so many lights up anywhere in my life. Thank goodness the overwhelming Christmas cheer was limited to the main reception and restaurant area… our little bungalow was quiet and dark, just the way we wanted it!

The next morning greeted us with glorious blue skies and lots of sun, but it was time for us to leave. All in all we had a fantastic trip, despite all of our misadventures! I was sad to leave… I had really grown to love our little island and I had grown happily accustomd to not wearing shoes. It had been just what I needed, lots of beach time, warm weather and so relaxing… and we came home with some pretty good stories… priceless!

Malé airport from our sea plane

20 week belly picture on beach with G

Swaying palm trees

Our bungalow

Lunching at the beach bar

Wading in the water

The view from our bungalow

On the snorkeling boat

Our beach

Snorkeling gear

Sea turtles

At the bar with our London neighbors

White sandy beaches

The stork who hung out at our beach everyday

Local boats

Absolute paradise

On the beach

More palms

A sea plane landing near our beach

Walking the island

The neighborhood rooster

Enjoying dinner

Another beautiful sunset

The boat ride out to the sea plane

Our sea plane back to Malé

Joyeux Noël - It's time to celebrate!

2007-12-16T16:11:00.000+01:00

This holiday season was a whirlwind of celebrations and merry making... just as it should be! We had a blast, but there was no rest for the weary. In addition to the normal dinner and lunch dates, we had some special events to help ring in the holiday season.

First up was the big GenevaOnLine (Glocals) holiday party that took place in a giant tent on the grounds of the Geneva Welcome Center. So we were well protected from the cold and rain that was pelting us outside. There were all the usual party folks there and I was thrilled to see a few friends who I rarely see out and about on the Geneva social scene. We drank (well, I stuck to my current favorite, jus de pomme, or apple juice) and danced until it was time to go. Unfortunately that was well after the busses had stopped running (even after the special "Noctambus" late night hour busses had stopped running). So we shared a taxi home with our friends J & G - a wonderfully sweet couple I met when I joined the GoL "mastermind" group last summer. What a great night!!

The next day we decided it was high time we visited Lyon's old town. We have both been to Lyon before, but really only to shop at the huge American-style mall (a rarity in Europe) or to change trains. We had never been to the old town or tried the world famous culinary delights that the town boasts! It was still a bit gloomy outside, but that didn't stop us from a nice tour around the city and a very traditional 2 1/2 hour lunch! No one can do a meal like the French! :)

The next week there were three holiday dinners on the schedule; G's office holiday dinner, my netball holiday dinner, and our annual Toastmasters holiday dinner. G's office party was held at a local Genevoise restaurant with fantastic food and was just around the corner from our flat which made it even better. After dinner we split up into groups of 5 and were given 3 eggs to protect. Yes, you heard me right. There was an "auction" where we spent play Euros on various types of packaging to protect our eggs and after constructing a protective package we had to throw the eggs off the second floor landing to the restaurant floor below. Unfortunately only one of our eggs survived. But out of about 7 teams our team came in second, which wasn't so bad.

To top off all the festivities, the city of Geneva was hosting the annual Fête de luminaires à Genève, which is a light festival throughout the city that lasts for most of December.

Next we are off to the Maldives for a week of fun in the sun. We won't be back until after Christmas, so happy holidays and Joyeux Noël!

Having fun at the GenevaOnLine (Glocals) holiday party

The (almost) winning egg team at the Brocade holiday party

In front of the Geneva flag at the Brocade holiday party

The basilica Notre-Dame de Fourvière, which overlooks the city of Lyon

G by the banks of the Rhône in Lyon

Keeping warm in Lyon

The narrow streets of Lyon

Fête de luminaires in Geneva - The Jet d’Eau fountain in red

Fête de luminaires - This shot is of Rousseau Island, just up the street from our flat!

Serching for G's Swiss roots

2007-12-12T16:09:00.000+01:00

One of my big passions is genealogy. Between G & my families I have compiled over 300 names. Whenever I can I spend time working on verifying my sources and trying to find the links to our European ancestors. Now is the perfect time to do our European research, but it isn't always easy because the records are so old.

We finally had time to investigate one of our best leads in Europe - G's great-grandmother was actually Swiss and lived in a small village called Vinelz before immigrating to the US. Unfortunately, G is two generations too far away to get a Swiss passport.

Vinelz is not far from the capital of Bern and is only a couple of hours away from Geneva. G took the day off and we finally made our way to the official village record keeper's office to see what they knew about her. Our Swiss-German speaking friend, Mrs. Kofi (and baby Els) was nice enough to come along as our interpreter.

The record keeper was really nice and so helpful. He actually had the hand written documents in a big book that recorded G's great-grandmother, her parents, and even her grandparents, as well as all the siblings of all those folks. In true Swiss style, the book was very well organized with the dates for birth, baptism, confirmation, "copulation" (or marriage), and death that dated back to the mid-1800's. It was really fantastic to see the original handwritten documents. We were even given a paper that translated the old Swiss German Alphabet into modern text which is really helpful in deciphering some of the writing.

After getting copies of all the documents we drove around the village (which took all of 3 minutes), took some pictures, and grabbed a snack from a local restaurant. It was a great day! Now we have one more link to the past and have discovered a wonderful little village in the heart of Switzerland.

Vinelz town crest

The village church which was there when G's great-grandmother lived in Vinelz

The bear of Bern (which is in the same canton or state)

Typical house in Vinelz

In search of Père Noël

2007-12-10T16:08:00.000+01:00

The centuries-old tradition of the Christmas Market is one of the great joys of Christmas in Europe. Complete with the festive atmosphere and the aroma of roasting chestnuts, hot wine, sausages and fresh baked goods that fill the air. I love to stroll the decorated boutique-lined streets and peruse the locally hand-made crafts.

This year I made it to three Christmas Markets. G & I spent the day at the markets in Strasbourg and Colmar, both in France near the German boarder and later in the week I ventured to Monteux which isn't too far from Geneva.

Strasbourg had the biggest market in France by far and is a nice mix between French and German culture. Colmar is just about the cutest place I have ever seen. The market is spread throughout the town along the pedestrian streets that line the winding canals. It is such a lovely town. I could definitely see myself back here in the warm weather of summer just taking in the ambiance of the place.

We sampled some of the culinary delights of the market and bought a few things, mostly ornaments and hand made Christmas decorations. I also picked up a wooden version of the game Connect Four - I can't resist locally made games. I also bought a bottle of absinthe for Gary (well, for me too in about a year). I figure we can't get it in the US, so why not? Absinthe, by the way, originated in Val-de-Travers, Switzerland, as an elixir. Interesting.

We also found some climbing Santas (all the rage in Europe). We didn't get them because I had seen them in Geneva the week before and figured I would just pick one up back home instead of dragging it with us on the train (they are a bit big). Well, of course when I went looking for them in Geneva they are no where to be found! They were all sold out or just not being sold anymore. So lesson learned: When you see a climbing Santa, just buy it! :)

Strasbourg

Colmar

Fête de l'Escalade

2007-12-09T15:12:00.000+01:00

The beginning of December can only mean one thing in Geneva... time for the Fête de l'Escalade! This is the yearly celebration in memory of the night attack by the Savoyards in 1602 and one of the biggest events of the year. The celebration has been held in Geneva for over 400 years and involves special dinners of hot and tasty vegetable soup, a foot race, chocolate pots called "marmites" filled with marzipan vegetables, and a big parade complete with hose drawn cannons.

The legend of that fateful night in 1602 surrounds a Geneva citizen, Mère Royaume, the mother of fourteen children. After realizing the city was being attacked, she seized a large cauldron of vegetable soup that was cooking on the fire and hurled it onto the head of a Savoyard mercenary. This woke the Geneva troops and the city was saved!!

G ran the famous Course de l'Escalade race and beat his time from last year by quite a bit. We actually knew quite a few people running this year and despite the cold, drizzly weather I was out there cheering on the runners. I had to skip this year's race due to my ever growing "bump" :)

As all good Genevoise do, we bought our own chocolate pot (marmite) filled with marzipan vegetables. The custom is for the youngest and the oldest in the house to smash the chocolate pot, while shouting, "Thus perish the enemies of the Republic of Geneva." (en Français - "Ainsi périssent les ennemis de la République!")

A week after the race there is a huge parade through the old town with folks in full historical costume, horsemen, musketeers, crossbow marksmen, torch-bearers, and even a hangman and his assistant. The procession is accompanied by gun smoke, firecrackers and gun salutes. I love this parade and wrapped up in my warmest clothes, went across the river to witness this grand spectacle. The best part was it is only a five minute walk from our flat, so as soon as it was over I was back home, toasty warm nibbling on our chocolate marmite. Good stuff!

Bébé on board

2007-12-08T17:31:00.000+01:00

Yes it's true...
We're Pregnant!!
And it's high time that we spread the word! When we were home in October we were thrilled to tell our friends and family the wonderful news, but I wanted to wait to post it until I had one more doctor’s appointment here in Geneva. This will be the first grandchild on my side of the family and the first great-grandchild for my grandparents who I was especially tickled to share the good news with. We are simply over the moon and can hardly wait to meet the little munchkin next spring.

So far everything is fantastic and going well. We are already 18 weeks along to the due date on May 12th and I have just started to show and wear maternity clothes (thanks Erika for the jeans!). I've found that I'm quickly growing out of my regular clothes, which is a great excuse to go shopping! We have already had two ultrasounds and have heard the little heart beating, which is so amazing to me! I'm now in my second trimester which is great, because I was really nauseous for the first 12 weeks and wasn't able to eat a lot. But it's a small price to pay and I tried not to complain too much. Now I've been feeling great and I seem to have my energy back too which is an added bonus!

We've really appreciated all the good wishes and advice we've received so far. It's just beginning to set in just how different our life will be next year. :) Our most common question so far is, "Do you know if it's a boy or girl?" No, not yet and we've decided to wait and be surprised. Yes, that will probably mean lots of green & yellow things (hey, but can't girls wear blue & boys wear pink?), but we figure there are so few things in life that are good surprises that why not wait?

Our other big news is that we are moving back to California at the end of February! Gary's contract has come to an end and we are gearing up for the big move. Three months seems like a long time, but I know it will fly by, just like the last 2 1/2 years have!! We will probably be in temporary housing for a few weeks while we sort out our condo situation (our tenants are in there until April), but whatever happens I plan on taking this move as easy as possible and make the movers do all the lifting. My main concern is our little munchkin and looking forward to when he/she finally arrives in May. :)

Catching up... A November to remember

2007-11-30T17:11:00.000+01:00

So as my loyal readers have noticed I haven't been current with my blog in quite a while. This summer & fall were crazy with visitors and traveling and even when I was in town I've been out and about hanging out with friends and trying to experience all that Geneva has to offer. After getting back home from the US almost five weeks ago we have been busy as usual:

I started having weekly lunches with a great group of gals who have moved to Geneva with their husbands and currently aren't working, so we have named ourselves "The Non-Desperate Housewives of Geneva". It is mostly made up of gals from the US, but we have some international members as well. We have had some good laughs, swapped stories, and shared advice while discovering some great restaurants in Geneva.

I'm still active with my book club, Toastmasters, my netball team, and have been attending the GoL curry club & Tuesday Night drinks regularly. This month I was Toastmaster of the evening for the first time (a big step for me!) and even won an award for "Best Table Topic of the Evening" for an impromptu speech I did. This month I also hosted a book club meeting at our flat, much to G's uneasiness since last time he claimed to be there "just for the free food" which didn't go over too well until I introduced him as my husband! ;)

On the 15th G took the day off so we could day trip down to Milan to see "The Last Supper" by Da Vinci which is painted on the wall of The Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Tickets are very hard to get and it has taken us almost two years to sort it out and get a reservation (no thanks to the old website of the church that kept canceling our reservations). It was totally worth the wait though! It was breathtaking and a bit surreal after trying to see it for so long.

We have been traveling too, despite the train strikes in France and Germany. G had taken the 16th & 17th off so we could take a nice four day weekend to Provence, but surprise... the French rail workers went on strike and no trains were running to France from Geneva. No mind, we decided to go to Bavaria to see the German Christmas Markets instead. Oh, the German rail workers were on strike too!! Well, we figured maybe we would go on the scenic train called "The Glacier Express" that crosses Switzerland, but after waiting a half hour to buy tickets we were told that it was not running until December 10th. We couldn't catch a break! So we stayed relatively close to home and spent a lovely day in Gruyères, famous for it's cheese, castle, and the H.R. Giger museum (who is best known for his design work on the film Alien). Scary stuff!!

Thanksgiving was good this year with not one but TWO dinners. One with the GoL crowd on the proper day, and one a week later with a really fantastic group of people hosted by my friend, C. The first dinner was at a restaurant with some strange courses, including green clam chowder. I sat next to a French gal who was at her first Thanksgiving dinner and wanted to know the significance of every course, including the "Pudding from the Indians" we had for desert - how old do you think that was?!? After dinner she declared Thanksgiving a rather "exotic" holiday. :) The next dinner was better with great company and food that was absolutely fantastic... I dare say it was the most delicious Thanksgiving meal I've ever had (sorry mom!)

The last weekend of November we did finally get to Provence which was really nice, but really cold! We visited the towns of Avignon (famous for it's nursery rhyme and medieval bridge) and Arles (with lots of Roman sights, including a huge Roman arena).

The last big event of the month was the Bern Onion Market(Zibelemärit), which I visited on my own since it is always held on a Monday. As usual it was great, with kids throwing confetti, live music, and lots and lots of onions. Of course I had to buy some, along with some other crafty things for sale. It was my third time to the market and I think it is going to be one of those things I will really miss when we move back to the US... there just isn't anything like it!

So that was our November, full of the usual hustle and bustle that is our life here in Geneva. :)

The snow in Gruyères

Listening to the audio guide at the Palace of the Popes (Palais des Papes) in Avignon

On the St. Benezet Bridge overlooking the Rhone in Avignon

Warming up at the Roman arena in Arles

Why go to little Liechtenstein?

2007-11-09T13:55:00.000+01:00

No offence Liechtenstein, but there are really only three reasons to visit this tiny little country squished between Switzerland and Austria... a stamp for your passport (which you have to pay 2 CHF for), stamps for your postcards, and simply to say you've been there. The country is only 25km (15.5 miles) by 6km (3.7 miles). When you ski cross country here you really go across the country.

I decided to take advantage of my "alone time" in Europe and explore a little further a field while G was still in the US, attending a worldwide sales meeting in San Francisco. I had my sights set on Liechtenstein which takes about 5 hours to get to from Geneva by train. I figured I would spend the night since the thought of over 10 hours on a train in one day didn't seem too fun to me (and my rules for "being to a country" is spending the night or having a meal outside the airport - so Tunisia doesn't count for us, damn!). I stayed in the capital, Vaduz, which as the most happening town in the country, leaves a bit to be desired. There are a couple of restaurants and a few souvenir shops that mostly sells Swiss stuff. There is also a castle the prince lives in (and can survey almost the whole country from) but you can’t go inside. The big draw for tourists is the TI office that sells the passport stamps.

I saw the whole town in about 20 minutes. I was headed back to Switzerland before I knew it, where I got to see most of the rest of the country on the bus ride back. On my way home I stopped into the town of Appenzell, Switzerland. Appenzell is famous for its cheese and for being the last canton in Switzerland that allowed women to vote (in 1971). Sounds crazy, but each household only had one vote, and the man would be the one to represent the rest of the family. It's a very traditional place, but 1971? Even the Soviet Union gave women the right to vote in 1917. But anyway, the town is super cute and definitely worth exploring.

When I "bragged" to my friends here that I had gone to Liechtenstein, they responded with a confused look, "Why?!?" "Uh... because it's there!" My journey did help to educate me on this very little corner of the world. Here are some fun Liechtenstein facts:
~ It's the world’s largest exporter of false teeth.
~ There is no airport, train service or freeways in the country, it's just too small.
~ You may not know you have crossed the boarder from Switzerland; the two countries share a postal system, currency (CHF), and public transportation (PostBus).
~ The number of companies registered here is more than double the population of 32,000 - big tax haven you think?

Happy Halloween!

2007-11-01T12:36:00.000+01:00

Although Halloween isn't a big holiday here in Geneva, it seems to be getting bigger every year, especially with the expats. The group, Glocals (formally GenevaOnLine... I still have to get used to the new name) threw a big Halloween party and it did not disappoint. G was still in the US, so I went with a friend whose husband is also back in the US. I was a "midnight fairy" and she went as an accident victim, complete with Top Ramen brains coming out of her head! I bought my costume when I was back in the US and I got a ton of compliments (my friend Greg said, "You must have gotten that when you were in California... you would never find that here!"). Some people didn't even recognize me with my black wig and Goth style! I only wish I had taken more pictures... I totally forgot I had my camera for a while. But it was a fantastic night and thanks to my crazy getup I even got in without having to pay the 20 CHF cover! :)

Top Secret Scrapbooking

2007-10-28T23:12:00.000+01:00

So this summer, in anticipation of W & K's wedding, a few of K's friends were asked by her best friend to put together four scrapbook pages to be put in an album and given to the blushing bride just before the big day. The scrapbook was a big surprise and now that K has received it, I can share with all of you the pages I contributed.

I used to be a big scrapbooker, and I still love to do it, but since we moved to Switzerland I haven't had a lot of time, space or the resources to do it properly. Part of the problem is there is only ONE scrapbook store in the country (yes, the whole country). I'm lucky because it's in the neighboring town of Versoix, only a 1/2 hour away by train. But it's quite expensive, so I try to limit my purchases there.

Anyway, it took a while (I started it with Chica when she was visiting this summer), but here is the final product (the lighting was a bit bad photographing the first page, but you get the idea anyway):

W & K tie the knot

2007-10-25T02:15:00.000+02:00

On a beautiful fall day in October, our dear friends, W & K were married. But the way things were looking on Friday, I was worried that the day would be less than perfect. On Friday it poured and poured and poured some more. The rain was so bad that it had flooded the freeway in three places between San Jose and Redwood City (it took me almost 3 hours to get between the two). I had heard that the ceremony and reception were all planned to take place outdoors and we were all concerned that the rain would put a damper on the big day.

But come Saturday morning the sun was shining and there wasn't a cloud in the sky! We drove up to Sebastopol and checked into our hotel. After getting ready we headed over to the cute little winery where the festivities were to take place. The setting was fantastic; tables with big market umbrellas overlooked the golden vineyards in the distance. The ceremony took place on a grassy knoll overlooking the valley below.

The ceremony, of course, was beautiful. Dinner was delicious and the speeches were great, especially the two songs sung by a barbershop quartet made up of K's family & friends. After the first dances and the cutting of the cake, it was time to leave the heat lamps by the tables and head up to the dance floor to get our grove on! A great time was had by all... especially one of the gals at our table who overindulged a bit with the wine. For me it was great to hang out with Chica and G's family (who were all there).

Overall it was fantastic! But once again we didn't get the award for the furthest traveled... but just barely. K's sister lives in Zurich, so she and her husband beat us by just 275 kilometers (170 miles). But the trip was well worth it, we had such a great time and we are thrilled to have been able to share in the celebration!

Good old US of A

2007-10-23T02:16:00.000+02:00

I was a bit anxious getting on the Continental flight on my way to US... but could you blame me? The last time I flew with them it took me 72 hours to get home to Geneva... but they are the cheapest by far, so I took a chance. Thankfully all went well and it was an uneventful (and on-time) flight.

The main reason for my trip to the US was the wedding of our friends, W & K, but I was determined to make the most of my trip and headed to Florida first to see my grandparents and aunt & uncle. It was three days of warm weather, catching up, and shopping - the clothes here are SO much cheaper than Geneva, and with the dollar plummeting overseas, I was sure to get some good deals. I always have a wonderful time in Florida, but as usual my time was way too short... soon it was time to continue my journey onto California.

The flight to California was not so uneventful... no, nothing wrong with the airline, except they let this drunk guy on the flight. And as luck would have it, he decided that he was keen on talking to ME. It started even before we boarded the plane when he was shouting at the first class passengers who were getting on the flight before everyone else. Then he got mad at the folks with kids who were also "cutting" in front. His mood vastly improved when he thought he was sitting near me... "Great! I can tell you all about my construction job and how much I like whisky..." Thank goodness we were two rows apart. But he made another friend and would not shut up for about an hour or so (on the late night flight all my fellow passengers and I wanted to do was sleep). It would have been all right if he wasn't SO LOUD! Oh well, at least it wasn't me he was jabbering at.

Friday I had to take a test to renew my EMT license. I had been studying quite a bit, but was still nervous because it has been months since I had been in class. This was the day it poured and poured rain, which wasn't good considering we were going to an outdoor wedding the next day! I picked G up at the airport and that night we had an early birthday dinner for him with his family.

On Saturday the sun came out and we drove up to Sebastopol to attend W & K's wedding. It was beautiful, of course, and we had such a great time! The next morning we had breakfast with G's mom, Chica, Mrs. Mingle, and her dad (who lives up in Sebastopol). It was great company and a mouth watering all-American breakfast! It really hit the spot.

I drove back to SF with Chica & Mrs. Mingle to attend a birthday party for Siff's daughter's first birthday. It was in Golden Gate Park and no one knew I was coming... I was the surprise guest of the day. I was thrilled to see them! The party was fun, even with the unwelcome guest that tried to steal food from the pot-luck table. It was such a nice afternoon catching up with everyone.

That evening G picked me up at Chica's parent's house and we were headed back to SF to have dinner with my mom & Mr. F. We were in for a big treat when we met the newest member of the family... Everett the black lab. He is SO CUTE!

On Monday night we had plans to have dinner with our good friends, P & K. They were expecting their first little one the following weekend, so we figured a dinner date early in the week was a safe bet. But on our way over to their place we got a call that they were going into labor! We were so thrilled for them and couldn't think of a happier reason cancel. Little Dashiell was soon here, healthy and happy. :)

The rest of the week was a whirlwind of lunch and dinner dates (& lots of Mexican food, yum!)... we had so many people to see and not a lot of time. In addition to Dashiell, there were three other new babies to meet. It seems like everyone is having kids! Even though it was a busy week, I had such a wonderful visit. Oh, and on my final day in the states I found out that I passed my EMT test!

As usual, it was over way too fast and soon I was headed back to the airport to catch my flight to Geneva. I'm happy to report that the flight back was uneventful... the flight was so empty I even got my own row to myself!

The next time I fly back to the US it will be to move back to California. We got the word this week that G is to be transferred back to the San Jose office in late February. We have four months left in Europe and we are determined to make the most of it! It's sad because we love it here in Geneva, but at the same time we are happy to be returning to a great place, close to family and back to our wonderful friends. There really is no place like home. :)

In searh of chakra

2007-10-08T02:14:00.000+02:00

We had heard so many wonderful things about Kraków and hey, we hadn't been to Poland yet, so we booked a cheep flight and headed out for a long weekend. Well, all those folks were right, it's a beautiful city, full of great sights and buzzing with a great vibe. It is even the birthplace of Pope John Paul II. G liked it so much that he would consider moving there!

The only problem was that when we arrived it was drizzly and cold and I hadn't packed too well so one of the first orders of business was to buy a warm coat. I think that was the best money I've ever spent because the rest of the weekend was pretty darn cold (yes, I've learned my lesson). The rest of the day we spent getting our bearings and just wandering around town. We saw some of the sights and ate at a great local place that a Polish gal from G's work had recommended. I didn't realize how big fresh squeezed juices are in Poland, but after tasting one glass of the peach-apple I was hooked... I think I had four glasses that night!

The next day we decided to visit Auschwitz, the biggest and most notorious concentration camp. We knew it wouldn't be an easy day, but we felt it was important to go. But getting there was tough. We read that there was a bus that left the main bus terminal and made the hour and a half journey to the camp. The bus turned out to be really small and we almost didn't get a seat... the people that came after us ended up standing for the entire way.

But once we arrived at the camp, saw the film and started the tour, I started to realize that little things like being cold or having to stand on a bus really wasn't that big of a deal. The camp really affected me and it really puts things into perspective. There are actually two camps at the site, Auschwitz I and Birkenau. We spent and hour and a half at each site and it was intense, but I'm really happy we went. I think it's something everyone should experience.

So cold and emotionally drained, we got back on the little bus (we managed to get a seat again) and headed back to Krakow. Walking back to the center of town we ran across a trabant car show (the old cars made in East Germany and popular during the communist era). It was really cool... there were over 50 cars and lots of enthusiastic collectors. The place we really wanted to see, but ended up deciding not to is the factory where Mr. Schindler helped to save countless people from the concentration camps. It still exists outside the city, but another company bought it and now it is just a factory and there really isn't much to see.

The next day we decided to venture to the Wieliczka Salt Mine where they have been mining since the 11th century. This time we took a public bus, which was bigger, but not very clear as to where to get off. We missed the stop and ended up walking for about a half hour, but I guess it could have been worse. When we arrived we were given the option of taking the Polish tour in 10 minutes or the English tour that started an hour and a half later. We opted for the Polish tour. We walked down a winding stairway 64 meters (210 feet) deep. Then we walked for about a mile and a half, eventually ending up 135 meters (443 feet) deep.

Whenever the guide spoke I gave her my undivided attention and smiled when I thought appropriate, although I couldn't understand a word she said. We had a little English guidebook, so we got most of what there was to see, including the enormous Chapel of the Blessed Kinga, carved out over 30 years and full of sculptures, including one of Pope John Paul II. We didn't run into any translation issues until it was time to leave.

We were still far underground and we had to catch an elevator to escape to the surface, but it only goes every half hour. We waited in what we thought was the line, then a mine worker started to lead us down a long corridor that was labeled "Mine Museum". We read that the museum takes an additional hour and a half to tour and we had had enough, so we bolted back the way we came. Soon we found ourselves alone (besides the one Polish speaking guide) and were told to get back in the same line we had been standing in. Oh no... now we had to wait another half hour!! But a few minutes later they caught on that we just wanted to leave and a very nice mine worker escorted us down the 300 yard corridor to the elevator and all of our fellow tourists. We made our escape!!

Back in Krakow there was only one major sight left to see, Wawel Castle, the most visited sight in Poland. A castle has stood on this hill since recorded history began and even though there were a lot of tourists, it is still a lovely place to stroll around. Most fascinating to me is that this is the place of the seventh Hindu chakra line that comes from a sacred stone that emits a cosmic healing energy.

According to legend, there are seven points on Earth where the chakra energy is most concentrated; in Rome, Jerusalem, Mecca, Delhi, Delphi, Velehrad, and right here at Wawel Castle. The spot is in the corner of a large courtyard and as expected there were several peaceful people leaning against the wall trying to absorb some of the energy. According to our guidebook, the administration of the castle tries to discourage folks from hanging out here (you would never know it was here unless you knew what you were looking for) and the tour guides are forbidden to talk about it. We stood by the corner for a bit, but really didn't feel much. I figured since we aren't going to be in Mecca anytime soon, why not give it a try while we were here?

It was time to head to the airport to catch our flight back to Geneva. We were flying Lufthansa through Munich. Now it was Sunday evening and it was imperative that we make our flights because I was on the 9am Continental flight to the US early the next morning. So of course our flight to Munich was late. With only an hour connection and landing only 15 minutes before our Geneva flight took off, I was sure there was no hope. But as we walked down the stairs off the plane, (we were supposed to get on a bus that was to take us to the terminal) there was a man holding a sign that said "Geneva"/"Zurich". We approached him and he took our boarding passes for our next flight and drove us in a little van straight to our awaiting plane! We were the first people on the plane, and most importantly we made it back to Geneva that night. Now that is good customer service. (Are you reading this Continental?!?)

At Wawel Castle

Auschwitz sign “Arbeit Macht Frei” or “work makes (one) free”

Looking down onto the track leading into Birkenau

Birkenau camp, designed to hold more than 200,000 prisoners

In the Wieliczka Salt Mine

G with the Pope in the Wieliczka Salt Mine

One of the cars at the trabant car show

Soccer hooligans surrounded by police at the main bus station

G getting a treat at the outdoor market in Kraków's main Market Square

Us with Smok Wawelski, or "The Dragon of Wawel Hill"

Ciao Italia!

2007-09-30T02:13:00.000+02:00

After wrapping up her work in Basel, Babs was on her way to Geneva to meet up with me and start our trip to Italy! We had a week of fun in the sun planned and a pretty packed agenda... Lugano (which is actually in Switzerland), Lake Como, Cinque Terra, Pisa, and last but not least, Florence! We got an early start Wednesday morning so not to waste a single minute on our grand tour.

Our first stop was Lugano, which I had heard so many good things about. Sitting on the shores of Lake Lugano, this Swiss town has an Italian flavor, but we found that there wasn't too much to see or do once you got through the main shopping streets. We opted for a boat cruise around the lake, but that turned out to be a very cold venture. It was a bit late in the year for capri pants and paddle boating (they looked fun, but they seemed to be tied up for the season), but I really didn't think it would be as cold as it was. The boat was out for about one and a half hours and by the time we got back all I wanted was a hot chocolate and a big bowl of soup! I hate to say it, but after one day I was ready to go, which happily was the plan anyway.

The next morning we were to catch a bus to the town of Menaggio, Italy on Lake Como. The guidebook made it sound easy, only a 12 mile ride and we would be there. When we finally found the bus terminal (which was way harder than it should have been), the lady at the ticket window asked if we had reservations. Uh, no. A phone call was made (while I was sweating bullets... how was I supposed to know we needed reservations for a BUS?!?) and then, after a few long minutes we were given the okay to buy tickets. Sheew - that was close! The funny thing was... when we got on the huge bus there were like four other people on it!!

Our 12 mile bus ride turned into an hour and a half windy hair-pin turn trek over a pretty mountainous region. At one point the bus had to back up for about two blocks up a hill to let a huge truck by. It was a bit nerve-rattling, but we made it. From Menaggio we had to take a boat across Lake Como to the tiny harbor town of Varenna where we were staying. The town was SO cute, but not roller-suitcase friendly with narrow, bumpy stone walkways and lots of very steep steps. It was a struggle to get to the hotel, but we were well rewarded once there. We had a great room overlooking the lake and we had the only room with a balcony!

But we weren't here to hang out at the hotel; we were soon off to explore the beautiful area we were staying in. After a relaxing lake-side lunch (and a much anticipated cappuccino) we hiked about a half hour up the hill from our hotel to the Castle of Vezio (Castello di Vezio). The views of the lake were breathtaking; the day couldn't have been nicer. We were even lucky enough to watch a falconer do his bird of prey training demonstration in the garden of the castle.

For dinner we decided to take the ferry across the lake to the town of Bellagio, the "Pearl of the Lake". This was definitely the most posh town on Lake Como, which made window shopping and people watching fun. Somehow we stumbled across one of the most popular restaurants in town and snagged the last outside table. The food was absolutely delicious and within about a half hour of sitting down, the wait for a table was enormous. At the height, there were over 18 people sitting on the steps outside the restaurant waiting to get in.

But we still had some surprises left that evening. After walking off our dinner we caught the ferry back to Varenna. There weren't very many passengers on the ferry, but we were still surprised when one of the guys who worked on the boat started chatting with us. Soon he invited us up to the bridge where we met the Capitan of the boat. Next thing we know they are teaching us how to drive the ferry across the lake!! It was really cool; we actually drove a good portion of the way back to Varenna. Of course we didn't leave without taking photos with our new friends.

The next day we were headed to Cinque Terra (via Milan) to meet G for a weekend of sun, sea, and sand. We were staying in Monterosso (where J and I stayed last summer), the largest and northern-most town of the five (cinque) villages that make up this area in the Italian Rivera. Even though we were passed the height of the tourist season on the coast, it was still packed with sun worshipers. On our first day we struggled to find a spot to fit all three of us on the public beach, but we were determined to catch some rays and relax (although we were squished between a group of hyper college girls and a boat rental place that kept stealing our sun). But nothing could dampen our mood, even a not-so-good Margarita that Babs ordered at the beach bar (hey, we were in Italy after all!) ;)

Besides the beach, the big draws are the wonderful towns themselves and the best way to explore them is by way of the wonderful 7-mile hiking trail that connects all the villages. The hike takes about 4-5 hours, but of course you have to make time for lunch, shopping, gelato, and a dip in the Mediterranean. The hike was pretty hot, even for this time of the year so we started early, grabbing breakfast in the second town, Vernazza. The hike was fantastic; we ate lunch in Corniglia, had gelato in Manarola, and swam in the sea in Riomaggiore. At the end of the day, we caught the last boat back to our home town (we weren't about to walk back!)

We had earned a well-deserved lazy day at the beach, and that is just what we did all day Sunday. Our train wasn't until almost five in the evening, so we had nothing to do but lounge around and relax. Unfortunately, G had to head back to Geneva, but Babs and I were on our way to Tuscany, and we were staying in the heart of it all in Florence.

There was so much to see and do in Florence itself, but there was also a lot to see in the outlying areas too. About a half hour from Florence is Pisa. While it is a bit touristy, I feel it's a must see for the Field of Miracles (where the Leaning Tower, Cathedral, & Baptistery are located). Unlike on the coast, in Tuscany it was the height of the tourist season, which turned out to be a bit of trouble for us. To climb the Leaning Tower (which no trip to Pisa is complete without), you need a reservation and we couldn't get one until the next day, so we booked it and decided to return then. Back in Florence we went on an evening walking tour (complete with wine tasting) and a great dinner at one of my favorite Florence restaurants (Osteria del Porcellino). We were strolling around town and came across a couple of really good street musicians. We stayed and listened (along with a huge crowd) for about an hour and we even ended up buying their CD.

The next day we were back in Pisa, but not before some daytime Florence sightseeing and shopping. We were staying right by an open air market that sold just about anything you can imagine, very tempting! Back in Pisa we finally got to climb the Tower (you can really feel the 85 degree angle as you climb). We were also treated to a brief musical duo at the Baptistery, which is a huge building that was also built as a musical instrument. A couple of ladies came in, shushed everyone up, and then started singing in the center of the 180-foot tall room. It was amazing, their voices echoed all around and it was lovely, although a bit haunting too. Back in Florence we had another fabulous dinner at another of my favorite restaurants, Trattoria Zà-Zà.

Of all the times I've been to Florence (this is my fifth visit), I have never been out in the Tuscany countryside. So this trip we signed up for "A Perfect Morning in Tuscany" tour that took us to some wonderful little villages (Fiesole & Settignano) in the country around Florence where we hiked to private Renaissance Villas (most beautiful was Villa di Maiano where "A Room with a View" and "Tea with Mussolini" were filmed). We ate lunch overlooking the rolling Tuscany hillsides at Fattoria di Maiano, a villa that specializes in virgin olive oil grown from some of the oldest olive orchards in Italy (of course I came home with a bottle!)

We were set to fly back to Geneva that evening, but there was still time for some more Florence sightseeing and shopping. Babs went to the Accademia to see Michelangelo's David (my favorite sculpture) and I perused the shops. But I was feeling a bit under the weather and by the time we got to the airport I was sick as a dog! It came on so suddenly, but I was happy it was towards the end of Babs’ trip and not at the beginning. We flew on a little Swiss carrier called FlyBaboo, which has a fleet of small planes (our plane sat about 50) and they serve some tasty food for free which is a rarity these days on short-haul flights.

The next day Babs was flying back to California (business class baby!). We spent the morning touring around Geneva and buying last minute gifts for her people back home. At the airport I was impressed with her skills at passport control where she managed to get a Swiss stamp (I've only gotten one in the two years I've been here!) I had such a great time over the last week and a half, but it really flew by!! I couldn't believe it was over so soon. Hopefully there will be another inspection in Switzerland she will have to fly out for in the next few months, before our time here in Europe is through (for now at least).

Old Town Lugano

Having fun at the Castello di Vezio

View of Lake Como from the Castello di Vezio

Eating at one of the most popular restaurants in Bellagio (just before the crowds arrived)

Driving the ferry back to Varenna

Hiking through the Cinque Terra

The view hiking into Vernazza

We found a shady spot (not so good for taking pictures, but good for beating the heat!)

Taking a dip in the Mediterranean

Holding up the Leaning Tower of Pisa

On top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa

Dinner in Florence at Osteria del Porcellino

In one of the oldest olive orchards in Italy

Hiking the Swiss Alps (once again!)

2007-09-29T02:13:00.000+02:00

I love my old company! Recently my friend Babs, who still works there, got a swanky job that flies her all over the country and even to... Switzerland (where a side perk is seeing me!) So you see, I'm still benefiting from the perks of Gene! :)

Babs DID come here for work, but we definitely made the most of her time off and then, after she was done, we sprinted off to Italy to enjoy the warmer weather (and food, wine, culture, shopping, and everything else Italy has to offer...) But first I was headed to Basel to meet up with her when she arrived in Switzerland.

Her work was centered in the Basel area, so I caught the train and met her when she landed on Thursday afternoon. After checking into her hotel, we walked through town and grabbed a drink on the shores of the river. She had to work Friday, Monday, & Tuesday, so I left her to her work and we planned to meet up Saturday morning for a weekend in the Berner Oberland area of the Swiss Alps.

This was to be the 4th trip to the Interlaken area for me & G, but we absolutely love it there, so we were excited to be heading back with Babs to share with her this beautiful country and to discover some new parts of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. This time we were actually staying at a campground in a 4-person bungalow. It was actually quite comfortable and almost as cheap as sleeping in the barn (but the bonus is a real bed!)

The three of us spent our first day hiking in an area called Schynige Platte. We started at the Alpine flower park, which was less impressive then our guidebook let on, but we did get the chance to see Edelweiss growing in the wild! We soon abandoned the park for some real hiking along a beautiful ridge heading up to Daub Peak, with Lake Brienz on one side and the beauty of the Jungfrau on the other. But once we reached the top, we found ourselves in the middle of a cloud! We waited it out long enough to get some decent pictures of the valleys below before we headed back down.

G and I loved our trip up to the "Top of Europe" so much that we had to take Babs up there too. So bright and early the next morning we were on our way to the Jungfrau and the highest train station in Europe. Soon we were in a wonderland of ice and snow. I was hoping to get a second chance to try out the zip line I had seen up here a few weeks before, but they were taking it down for the season! Oh well, I guess some things are just not meant to be. We walked around and watched some tourists take their turn circling around a small track on a dog sled, which was quite entertaining. The weather couldn't have been better for our high Alps adventure and I think Babs really had a great time... I know I did!

Heading back down to the valley we stopped in the town of Wengen for a picnic lunch before zipping up the Mannlichen cable car for one last hike. Above the Mannlichen lift station we hiked up to the World Heritage sight of the Mannlichen Gipfel (the little peak at 7,500 feet) where the views are arguably the best in the world. The entire Jungfrau mountain range, the Lauterbrunnen Valley, and all of the Interlaken valley. You are literally surrounded on all sides by breathtaking views! It was simply incredible. But it was getting late and we had more on the agenda for the day. Since Babs had to make a transfer in the town of Luzern on her way back to Basel, I figured I would go with her and we could have dinner in the picturesque town of Luzern.

Of course things don't always go as planned. By the time we got to Luzern it was late and we only had a couple of hours to wander around the town and have a little gelato before I had to catch the last train back to Geneva. So, no dinner for us, but Babs really liked Luzern and was so glad we stopped in to have a look. She was now on her way back to Basel and I was on my way to Geneva, or so I thought!

I had a really tight train change in Olton (on my way to Bern where I was to transfer again before getting to Geneva). There was also a track change and with the tight connection I managed to get on the wrong train to Bern, ensuring that I would miss the last train to Geneva by 10 minutes! I was so upset because I was dead tired and just wanted to get home. I called G who arranged a hotel for me in Bern. The guy at the hotel was waiting up for me when I arrived just after 11pm. "You must be the one who missed the train." Yup - That's me!

Eventually I did make it home, no worse for ware, and now I can say I spent the night in Bern! Anyway, it was all worth it for the great weekend we had. Our adventures were not over yet... in just two days, after finishing her work, Babs was set to meet us in Geneva to start the next part of the journey... Italy here we come!

Hiking Schynige Platte

Edelweiss growing in the "wild" (at the Alpine flower park)

The happy hikers

Getting to know the local wildlife

Waking up on the train to the Jungfrau "Top of Europe" (we had a very early start)

Inside the glacier in the Ice Palace at the "Top of Europe"

Outside in the cold at the "Top of Europe"

Which way?

Feeling on top of the world at Mannlichen Gipfel

Chilling out on the edge

The view from the top

118 - Write it on your undies!

2007-09-27T12:21:00.000+02:00

You thought Geneva was boring? Well, here is a video promoting emergency service numbers in Switzerland (filmed in Geneva) that features firefighters rapping and dancing. Some are seen shaking their money maker in uniforms, while others are clad in hot pants. The longer you watch, the better it gets. This video is actually shown on television here to get the message out!

In Switzerland, the old directory assistance number was 111 and was recently changed to 1818. Problem is, the fire department's emergency number is 118, (like our 911), so now the emergency services have been receiving hundreds of calls each month from people trying to reach directory assistance (1818). So, what better way to educate the public about the right numbers to dial? That's right... a rap video.

The song is about only using 118 for emergencies. If you need an electrician, call one; if you get locked out, call a locksmith; if your toilet backs up, call a plumber; if you have problems with an animal under 10 kilos, don't call the fire department; but if you have a fire then 118 is the right number to call! At the end, the guy is explaining that regrettably the fire department will be unable to help you with your house burning down because they are so busy dealing with non-emergency calls. So you should "tattoo the number on your underwear" so you won't make a mistake.

"Cent dix-huit, au cas ou tu flippes.
Cent dix-huit, inscrit-le dans ton slip."

English translation:
"118, in case you freak out.
118, write it on your undies."

I absolutely love it! I wish we had done something like this at West Plainfield Fire when I volunteered there!

Soaking up the good life in Hungry

2007-09-11T17:06:00.000+02:00

Our trip to Budapest nearly ended before it even began. We had planned to visit this capital of Eastern Europe over a long holiday weekend, so when we arrived at the airport and saw that our flight was cancelled I was worried we would be staying home. But by the time we had gotten to the front of the Brussels Airlines customer service line, they already had rebooked us on a flight leavening just an hour later on Lufthansa. Tickets in hand, we were off and running. Now that is customer service.

We landed to cold and rain, but that didn't stop us from getting right out there and start our sightseeing. We stumbled upon an Eastern European landmark, the first McDonald's behind the Iron Curtain. Of course we had to stop in for a snack, how often do you get the chance to eat at such a historical place?!? We wandered around the Pest side of town, taking in the shopping street of Vaci Utca and The Great Market Hall. We strolled back along the banks of the Danube River to a traditional Hungarian restaurant and then we took in a Hungarian folk and dance show.

The next day we continued our sightseeing despite the cold, drizzly weather. In the morning we concentrated on the Buda side of the city. We ascended Castle Hill, visited Matthias Church, stopped at the Fisherman's Bastion, and finally checked out the remains of St. Mary Magdalene Church, which was destroyed in WWII. In the afternoon we were back over on the Pest side where we visited the Great Synagogue, St. Istvan's Basilica, The Hungarian State Opera House, and the House of Terror. That evening, we decided to take a walking tour of the city. To our surprise, we were the only ones on the tour! Our guide was great, at the end she said we would be meeting up with all the people from the Pub Crawl Tour for a few drinks, but surprise... no one showed up for the Pub Crawl! So it was just me, G, and three guides. Needless to say, there were no wild parties that night! ;)

The next day we were headed out of town on a Danube Bend tour which took us to the towns of Esztergom, Visegrad, and Szentendre, after an unexpected stop at a "Diamond Center" where we resisted the hard sell to buy expensive jewelry. The big sight in Esztergom was the Basilica and for us, the views just over the river into Slovakia. In Visegrad we got to explore the Visegrad Citadel, the remains of an old hilltop castle that looks over the river. Our favorite stop was the old town of Szentendre. We loved wandering the picture perfect streets, eating ice cream and doing a little shopping. From Szentendre we took a two hour boat ride back to central Budapest, which brought us right by the Hungarian Parliament Building.

We didn't plan for our last day to be too hectic, but we ended up really packing it in. We started by checking out Heroes' Square, the City Park, and the Zoo (we had a bit of time to kill). We then joined a "Communist Hammer & Sickle Tour" which included a trip to Statue Park, filled with statues of Stalin, Lenin, and other reminisce of the communist era. There was even a Trabant, the communist era's most popular car. Our guide was again great. She had actually lived through the communist years and told us many stories of how life was for her and her family. It was a fantastic tour.

The weather was getting a little better, but it seems that the heavy rains of the past few days were causing the river to swell. On our first day we noticed a measuring stick on the banks of the river and we took pictures of it every day. From day one until we left the river had risen substantially.

By now we were done sightseeing and were looking forward to the highlight of the weekend, relaxing as the locals do in Budapest's famous baths. We decided to go really local and take a dip in the Szechenyi Baths, located in the City Park. At the baths you can rent swimsuits (yikes) and towels. Fortunately I brought my suit and after a little searching (it was September after all), we found one to purchase for G. But we didn't have towels, so we rented them. The towels turned out to be more like sheets, but they did the job just the same. The baths were great... fun and relaxing. There are many different pools to choose from, including one that actually pulls you around in a powerful current. It was the perfect way to end our trip to Budapest, soaking up some good Hungarian living.

G at the first McDonald's behind the Iron Curtain

Hungarian folk dancers

The Chain Bridge at night

On Castle Hill

Danube Bend, looking into Slovakia

G in gallows at the Visegrad Citadel

G souvenir shopping in Szentendre

Cruising in front of the Hungarian Parliament Building

Getting ready to drive off in a Trabant

Statue Park

The Szechenyi Baths

Sleeping in the straw at the top of Europe

2007-09-04T17:01:00.000+02:00

You would think we have had our fill of Interlaken and the amazing Berner Oberland area of Switzerland. After all, we had been there just a couple weeks before. But this is one of our favorite places in Switzerland, and maybe even the world. I could spend a week there and not get board. Not only is there adventure around every corner (this is where, with Chica, we have gone canyoning, mountain biking, paragliding, and ice climbing), but there are also some of the best hiking trails I have ever been on.

On this trip I was determined to do something I've wanted to do ever since we have moved to Europe and that is to sleep in a barn. Doesn't sound glamorous? Well, G didn't think so either but he was a good sport and accompanied me for a night of "Sleeping in the Straw". If you can believe it, the barn was totally booked for Saturday night, so we made a reservation for Sunday night. That left us with the rest of the weekend to explore the Lauterbrunnen Valley and surrounding area.

On Saturday we got in late, but managed to squeeze in a late afternoon hike from Mannlichen to the Kleine Scheidegg train station and caught the last train down to the valley where we were staying. We had an early dinner and got ready for our big day on Sunday - the day we planed to visit the "Top of Europe".

We started at 7am, catching one of the first trains up the mountain. We were headed to the Jungfrau (which means Virgin), the highest peak of a mountain massif of the same name. The other two peaks are the Eiger (or Ogre), and the Mönch (meaning Monk) that sits in between the Jungfrau and the Eiger. (The Monk protects the Virgin from the Ogre). Soon we reached the Jungfraujoch station, the highest train station in Europe.

Up here there is a big complex of tunnels and buildings and even an area you can go out and walk on the snow. Our first stop was an area at the very top called the Sphinx observation terrace which is an amazing 3,571 meters high and has stunning views. We also checked out the "Ice Palace", a permanent exhibit of ice sculptures inside the glacier.

At the adventure center you can take a helicopter tour, rent skis (all year round), ride on a dog sled, hike, go on a zip line (which I was amped to do, but it was closed due to maintenance work), and even golf! G tried his hand at making a hole in one which would have earned him a 100,000 CHF (about $80,000) watch, but he was a tad off. We ended up walking around the snow covered trails that looked down to the Konkordiaplatz, (the large flat area of snow and ice lying just to the south of the Jungfrau) the Aletsch Glacier, as well as the surrounding mountains. It was stunning. We were having a great time, but it was also really cold and I was starting to feel the effects of altitude sickness (not too bad, but after two hours it was time to head down).

That afternoon we took our backpacks up to the tiny mountain town of Gimmelwald where we dropped our stuff off at the barn. We didn't stick around for long because we were eager to take a 4 hour hike from the Birg lift station, past a little lake, up to the Brunli ridge, and under the Sprutz waterfall before heading back down to Gimmelwald. The hike was amazing. We started in a rocky plateau and descended down past grazing cows and sheep. I loved listening to their bells along the way. We barely saw anyone else along the trail, even when we descended through some small farms. The highlight of the hike was the Brunli ridge and making it to the peak where we found a metal box with a plastic covered register inside where we jotted down our names along with other hikers from all over the world who had done the same. What an amazing experience!

We descended into the village of Gimmelwald and we were tired and hungry. We soon discovered that the only restaurant in town was closed for renovations, so our only option was to eat at the hostel. Our choice for dinner was pizza or fondue. We went for the pizza. After dinner we headed back to the barn. Now this is a real working barn in the winter, but in the summer, when the cows are up grazing in the mountains, the farmer rents it out to crazy people like us. For 24 CHF (about $20) you get a spot on the straw and your pick from a stack of blankets and a real farm breakfast. We brought our own sleep sacs so we were cozy and warm in the barn. Because it was sold out the night before, we figured we would have company (there was space for about 18 people or so). But to our surprise (well, to my surprise, G figured Sunday wouldn't be too popular) we were the only ones!! Now that is value for your money.

I can't say it was the most comfortable place I've ever slept, but it was a unique experience I will not soon forget. Unfortunately, G had to catch the first gondola down the mountain (at 6:30am) to make the 4 hour journey back to Geneva to go to work. I stayed and folded all the blankets and had breakfast by myself in the barn. Before I left town I walked around taking a few pictures here and there. It was really cool being the only tourist in town, smiling good morning to the local towns folks.

Before heading back to Geneva I decided to head to the town of Ballenberg to check out the Swiss Open-Air Folk Museum. It s a sprawling complex of more than 100 original century-old buildings from all over Switzerland, historical gardens and fields, demonstrations of typical crafts, and over 250 native farmyard animals. It really is a taste of rural life from bygone days. I loved it! I was there for over four hours and I was really rushing to get through it all. All in all it was a great weekend!

One of the many cows we saw on our hikes

At the "Top of Europe"

At the "Top of Europe" with the Konkordiaplatz ice field behind us

G showing off his golf swing

Hiking above Gimmelwald in the Berner Oberland

My favorite hiking trail, along the Brunli ridge

At the top of the Brunli ridge

In the town of Gimmelwald

Sleeping in the straw in Gimmelwald

Traditional farm at the Swiss Open-Air Folk Museum

An interesting building at the Swiss Open-Air Folk Museum

Schwingfest!!!

2007-09-03T16:58:00.000+02:00

Seriously... how could I make this up?

No, G and I did not attend a crazy spouse swapping event or a wild weekend at some "alternative" resort... instead we went to one of the biggest sporting and cultural events in Switzerland, the Schwingen Alpine Festival, or Schwingfest for short.

Along with G's friend from work, M, we all piled in Mr. & Mrs. Kofi's new car, with baby Els is tow too. We drove halfway across the country to Luzern where we spent the night. On the way we stopped in Bern to visit with Mrs. Kofi's grandmother and then have a riverside lunch and do some sightseeing around town. We rolled into Luzern pretty late, but we got a warm reception from Mr. & Mrs. Kofi's friend who we had dinner with. He has a great place that overlooks the lake and the Alps in the distance. The food was great and the conversation was flowing. We didn't want to leave, but we had to be up early to make it to the festival.

The Schwingfest is the National Wrestling Festival that takes place every three years and lasts for two days. Saturday is the preliminary matches and Sunday are the finals. The wrestlers wear a special pair of shorts over their pants (that look like a potato sac but are tougher). One hand grips the opponent's belt (through a hole at the back) and the other grips the bottom of his shorts. The aim is to throw the opponent onto his back (with both shoulders touching the ground), without losing the grip on his shorts.

There are quite a lot of rounds and quite a few wrestlers, so within the arena there are 7 matches going on at once. I had no idea who was who, but I knew there were three guys from California (of only 4 international competitors) and one was from Vacaville... so he was my guy. Too bad he was eliminated early on.

But there was a lot more going on than just wrestling. There was the big stone-throwing (Steinstossen) competition where a giant stone weighing 176 lbs. is held above the competitor’s head and thrown as far as possible. We actually saw the world record of stone throwing broken! There was also marching bands, yodelers, flag tossers (Fahnenschwingen), military horse riding demonstrations, alphorn players, and a group of parachuters that landed right on the field.

We met up with a group of Mr. & Mrs. Kofi's friends who knew way more about wrestling that we did, so we picked their brain all afternoon trying to understand a little more about the sport. We enjoyed the local cuisine of bratwurst and beer and of course the good company of friends.

We also had a chance to get a close look at the prizes for the winners. The first prize for the "King of Schwing" is a giant bull. Other large animals such as horses and cows are given to the top 10 wrestlers. Since almost all of the competitors are farmers, they are pretty valuable gifts.

Overall it was a fantastic festival... much more than we had expected, although I really didn't know what exactly to expect. But Mrs. Kofi was right; it was not to be missed! And best of all... now we can say we are real schwingers!

G, Mr. & Mrs. Kofi, baby Els, & M

Schwingen wrestlers in action

Enjoying the festivities

Alphorn players take the field

More Schwingen wrestling

The grand prize bull for the "King of Schwing"

Victorious Obus

Memories of summer...

2007-09-02T16:55:00.000+02:00

Here is a splice of typical Geneva life from this summer. This is what we were up to over a two week period in August (when we were in town):

Going to a movie at the outdoor Orange theater - we saw 1408... not so good, but the setting was amazing!
Rollerblading around the lake
Glocal kick off party - our wonderful social networking site GoL changed it's name this summer to Glocals (Global + Local) with much heated debate. The kick off party was lakeside under the stars... very cool.
Transformers (en Français) with our friend, M (there was confusion between v.o. and v.f.) - the French version was still pretty good!
Tuesday Night Drinks - netball was rained out.
More rollerblading - on Wednesdays a group from GoL blades together around town.
Matt's going away party - Geneva is transient and it seems that there is always a going away party to attend... sad, but nice that we have made so many friends that we can now visit all over the world! :)
To the zoo with Mrs. Kofi & Els - exploring new places with good friends.

On hiatus in the summer is Toastmasters (we take August off since everyone is on holiday) and my book club -- everyone wants to be outside enjoying the great weather (or the so-so weather, but it is still nicer than winter!)

36 by 37

2007-09-01T18:10:00.000+02:00

I know it has been a little while since my birthday, but as a faithful reader of Sactown Kid's blog, "Yay Toast (and all things good)!" I'm taking up her birthday challenge.

Basically it works like this: You make a list of things, equal to your current age, that you want to accomplish by your next birthday (& scrapbook about it if you are crafty and have the time... maybe next year I will, but for now I'm just happy to have written the list).

I've done a couple of the things on the list already, but I assure you that I made the list after my birthday and before I accomplished anything on the list... it just took a while to publish them.

So who out there is up to the challenge too??

36 things by 37 challenge
(in no particular order)

1. Take a cooking class
2. Start grad school
3. Make significant progress on my genealogy research
4. Register and train for a half marathon
5. Paraglide in the Swiss Alps
6. Volunteer with Habitat for Humanity
7. Visit my grandparents
8. Send out my Christmas cards on time
9. Purchase a new set of rollerblades
10. Get pregnant
11. Sleep in a barn in Gimmelwald
12. Be in better shape
13. Beat my “course de l’Escalade” race time
14. Drink the water in Evian, France
15. Read a book a month
16. Release at least 12 books (one a month) on Bookcrossing.com
17. Go ice climbing on a glacier
18. Eat at least one fruit and one vegetable every day
19. Drink at least 2 glasses of water every day
20. Visit the Jungfrau “The Top of Europe”
21. See a movie at the outdoor theater in Geneva
22. Start a personal recipe book
23. Learn to speak French more fluently
24. Explore new places in town (and the surrounding area)
25. Renew my WWF (World Wildlife Federation) membership
26. Visit countries #34, 35, 36, & 37
27. Attend the Schwingen Alpine Festival
28. Start swimming again
29. Go antique shopping
30. Find ways to become more environmentally friendly
31. See “The Last Supper” in Milan
32. Stay current with my blog
33. Renew my EMT certification
34. Stretch every day
35. Visit Lavey-les-Bains thermal baths
36. Read “The Little Prince” en Français (& understand it!)

Adrenaline junkies

2007-08-30T16:54:00.000+02:00

Back in Geneva we were ready for some well deserved R&R. Chica and I spent a couple days just recuperating from the wild jet-setting adventures of the past week or so. The weather in Geneva was terrible, which was actually perfect for dinners at home and watching bad movies (not by choice). We dove into the series Band of Brothers, which we were inspired to watch after our trip to Normandy. We also spent a rainy afternoon completing a super-secret project for a friend's upcoming wedding (details to follow in a future blog after the secret has been revealed.) :)

After a couple of days of staying indoors we were ready to get out and do something. An outing to the 11th century Château de Chillon (one of the best preserved castle in Switzerland) seemed perfect! It was a bit chilly, but still warm enough to have lunch outside and enjoy the day.

That night it was finally warm enough (and dry enough) to wander the Fêtes de Genève! This is the big two-week festival that takes over the lake-side streets of Geneva every summer with carnival rides, music, open-air dance clubs, food, and lots of merriment. Last year at the fête I learned that Chica's favorite carnival ride is the giant swings. The swings were back again this year, but now they were three times as high as last year!! We HAD to go. I got a kick out of Chica's screaming, and in her defense, it was really scary!! It was a blast! On the way home we stopped into the O-bar tent (right next to the lake) for a little late night dancing and socializing.

We were back at the fête the next day, enjoying the first real sunshine of the week. That night was the big firework show which we had purposely stayed in town to watch. But first we were headed to the go carts to see just who of G, Chica, and I were the fastest! We had a few races, but overall I think the winner was clear, depending on who you talk to! ;) After we met up with G's friend from work, M, and staked out a prime viewing spot on the Mont-Blanc bridge (just a block from our apartment). The fireworks were amazing, even better than last year. I can easily say they were the best I have ever seen. We stopped into the O-bar after for a couple drinks, but we had an early start the next day... we were headed to Interlaken!

We went to Interlaken with Chica last summer for a weekend full of canyoning and mountain biking. We had so much fun that we were eager to go again. We really didn't have anything on the agenda when we rolled into town, but one thing caught our eye right away... paragliding! Paragliding is similar to parachuting, but you launch yourself off the side of a mountain instead of an airplane and when you launch, your shoot (or wing) is already open. We signed up and were scheduled for a flight that afternoon. We had a couple hours to wait, which proved a bit taxing on our nerves, but after watching a few other brave souls land in the park in town I was confident. We drove up the hillside to our launch site, 1320 meters (or 4,400 feet) above the valley floor.

Chica was first off the mountain (we randomly chose our guides and then in random order ran off the mountain), I was next followed by G. It was really exhilarating, and not as scary as I thought it would be. I floated, took pictures, shot video, and chatted with the guide before he asked, "So, do you like roller coasters?" That was followed by a somewhat terrifying death-spin -- it was awesome!! We each had about a 20 minute ride, which was great. The conditions were good and it couldn't have been a more comfortable ride. My only disappointment was that it was over so fast! But the thrills were not over yet... we found a local luge track and took turns speeding down the track before heading back for dinner.

We stayed the night at our favorite hostel, Balmer's, where we met a nice couple from New Zealand and convinced them to join us the next day for an ice climbing excursion. We found out about Ice Climbing in a brochure, "Imagine yourself rappelling down crystalline blue ice cliffs, surrounded by the most magnificent mountains in the world and ice climbing back up." We knew that was the thing for us! It turned out to be just the 5 of us (G, Chica, me, and the Kiwis).

Our guide was a real character, a local who has been climbing his whole life. We drove in his old van about an hour away to the Stein Glacier where we hiked up (even seeing real marmots on the way), put on our cramp-ons and headed out onto the ice. It was amazing. After lunch on the glacier we donned our helmets & harnesses and walked to the edge of the giant ice crevasse. One by one we rappelled down, ice axes in hand. It was so exhilarating I almost forgot how cold it was! The climbing was tough, but once I got the technique down I was hooked. Even though you have axes to help you up, it is crucial to have your legs do the majority of the work. We scrambled up and down the crevasse all afternoon and by the time we left, I was exhausted but thrilled to have found a new sport that I really like. We hiked back down to the van and I think we all fell asleep on the way back to town! What a day!!

That night we were on the train back to Geneva. Chica was flying out the next day, but what a way to end the trip. Two days of extreme sports and more amazing memories of Interlaken. The past two and a half weeks were some of the best of the summer for me and it meant the world to me that Chica came out to visit once again. Like I said, it really doesn't matter if we are chilling at home watching dumb movies or scaling mountains, we always have a great time together! You really can't ask for much more than that in a friend. :)

Château de Chillon

Chica trying to get out the emergency exit at the Château

Paragliding over Interlaken

G paragliding

We all survived the jump!

Chica getting ready to luge!

Chica & G preparing for the hike up to the glacier

Ice climbing!

Our climbing group; G, Chica, our Swiss guide and the Kiwis

Hiking back down from the glacier

The jet-setters

2007-08-29T16:53:00.000+02:00

Fi dropped us off at the train station in Sterling and we were off to Edinburgh. This was the first big city we had been to so far and it was a stark difference from the country side. But we were excited to start exploring right away. We first stopped to drop our stuff off in the dorm room we were staying in (yup, we were staying in the dorms at Edinburgh University), then we were ready to hit the town.

We spent the afternoon at Edinburgh Castle and wandering around downtown. The Fringe Fest was just getting started (the world’s largest arts festival that precedes the famous Edinburgh Festival) and the town was really lively. We ate a pub dinner and had a bit of time to hit an internet cafe where Chica got to see the first pictures of her brand new nephew who was born earlier in the week. He is so cute with a full head of red hair!

That night we signed up for the Literary Pub Tour. I figured Chica would love it considering she was an English major in collage, but unfortunately she had a hard time understanding the thick Scottish accent that the lead actor had. But all was not lost, the beer was flowing and we met some really fun people, some locals and some American girls. There were about 10 of us and we ended up bar hopping with them until the wee hours of the morning. Needless to say we didn't do too much the next morning. We had a plane to catch in the early afternoon, so we just ended up spending the rest of our time in Edinburgh walking around and poking into a couple of free museums.

We were on our way to Dublin! We got to the hotel and were told we were on the 4th floor, which meant four flights of very long and very steep stairs (sorry, no elevator). We were ready for a nap! We ventured to Temple Bar for dinner and found a fantastic traditional Irish restaurant. Delicious.

The next day was our only full day in Dublin, so we were determined to make the most of it. We got up early and headed to Trinity College to see The Book of Kells, then we were off to Dublin Castle, Kilmainham Gaol (the former prison), and then the Guinness factory. We were having a great time, but we had to rush off to dinner, since we made reservations at one of the most popular places in Temple Bar and we didn't want to loose our spot.

Dinner did not disappoint, the food was great and there was even a small band, it was fantastic. But shortly after we sat down, Chica lets out a little scream. "You okay?!?" I asked. Turns out the air conditioning unit above her seat was periodically dripping water that was hitting her on the arm, which she insisted was quite startling. I offered to switch spots but she refused. It was quite funny but some of our fellow diners didn't think so. Well, a few screams later we switched and thanks to my sweater, I hardly felt the drops.

After dinner we went on a Musical Pub Crawl (do you see a pattern?), it was one of the best tours I've ever been on. There was a fiddle player and a guitar player who took us outside the tourist areas and we visited several local pubs where they played traditional Irish music. People were singing along and at one point people were even asked to come up and play/sing their own songs. Earlier I had happened to mention to the fiddle player that Chica played the guitar. Oops. I didn't realize that I had now put her in danger of being called up to play, but it all turned out okay, neither of us had to sing or play anything.

Afterwards we continued on with the fiddle player and a gal from South Africa (who earlier had been very brave and sang her national anthem in front of the entire group) to another local pub where local musicians come to jam. It was really incredible; we even met one of the top fiddle players in Ireland! I was so moved by the music that I decided to take up the fiddle (at some point - check back with me in a couple of years). We didn't get back to our hotel until nearly 3am! That was a bummer considering we had to leave for the airport at 5am!! It was a rough morning, but we made our flight to Paris.

Now in the spirit of saving some money, I booked a flight on RyanAir into Paris Beauvais, an airport an hour and a half north of the city. After the long bus ride we then had to walk to the metro and catch a train to Orly airport (which is South of Paris) where we were to meet G and pick up our rental car. Unfortunately there was major work being done on the metro which greatly complicated our journey, but several hours later we made it to Orly, where G had just arrived. In hindsight it would have been worth every cent of the extra ticket faire to fly directly into Orly. Next time. Soon we had our very tiny car and we were zipping through the country side to Normandy. We were staying in the town of Bayeux, a cute little French village close to the D-Day beaches. We had a delicious typical French dinner in an adorable garden. I have to say we ate really well on our trip! We raised our glasses and cheered "Enchanté!", I mean "Santé!" to meeting up with G and our amazing trip so far.

We had booked a full day tour of the D-Day beaches for the next day. We shared a minivan with two other couples and a British lady that really got on Chica's nerves. The tour was fantastic, our guide was incredibly knowledgeable and he told the most interesting stories as he whisked us to the different museums and WWII sites. It was a beautiful day too, which made it even nicer to be outside. But it was a tiring day with a lot of information to absorb. Back in town we checked out the cathedral and the Bayeux Tapestries before dinner.

In the morning we drove to the edge of Brittany to Mont Saint Michel, the tiny island abbey that has draw pilgrims for thousands of years. We fought the crowds to get to the abbey at the top of the island. It was beautiful, but the sheer number of people was a bit overwhelming. We struggled to walk down the single lane road to get back down the hill. I've never seen so many people crowded in such a small area in my whole life. After lunch and ice cream we were headed out. There were just way too many people!

We were spending the night near the Orly airport to catch an early morning flight back to Geneva. We decided to stop in Versailles, which was on the way back, for dinner. This turned out to be a big mistake. Dinner was fine, and walking around the front of the palace at sunset was cool, but due to detours on the road we became hopelessly lost. And I really mean hopelessly!!

A drive that should have taken us an hour or so took us almost 4 hours!!! We simply could not find our way back to Orly. We were so late that the reception office closed and we had to retrieve our key out of a machine that we almost could not operate! But somehow we got into our room. I was starting to worry we would be spending the night in our car. Even in the morning we got lost once again trying to find a gas station! I have to tell you I was thrilled to be turning in that car! We were exhausted, but happy to have a bit of downtime in Geneva. The trip so far had been great, and Chica was still out for another week!

The merry group from the Literary Pub Tour in Edinburgh

At the Guinness factory in Dublin

The Musical Pub Crawl band in Dublin that inspired me to take up the fiddle

Night out on the town in Dublin after the Musical Pub Crawl

G and Chica at the D-day beaches

D-day landing craft

On the Normandy coast

The abbey of Mont Saint Michel

The crowds on the way up to the abbey of Mont Saint Michel

Three chicks and a baby - our adventures with Fi & Ro

2007-08-28T16:53:00.000+02:00

Our flight to Gatwick airport in England was very early; we were tired but excited to meet up with Fi & baby Ro. But when we arrived... no Fi. So I called. "Hi, we're here. Where are you?" "I'm right here where you come out!" "You are?" Another check and still no Fi. I called again, same story. Well, it turns out she was in a totally different part of the airport, but eventually we met up and we were on our way. Let the crazy UK road trip begin!!

Our original plan was to go to the town of Bath and have lunch before driving to the North of England to a place called the Lake District. But we realized that we were just as close to Stonehenge and that none of us had ever been there. Now Stonehenge is really not near anything at all, it's in the middle of the countryside about two hours to the Southwest of London and it took us just about that long to get there from Gatwick. Despite the drive we were rewarded with a truly amazing sight. It is really quite awe inspiring to think of how the stones were transported all the way from Ireland or Scotland to the very south of England over 4,000 years ago. It is truly amazing.

We were now headed north - way north. We were headed to the very top of England. We had a reservation at a hostel in the Lake District and we had to get there by that night. On the way we stopped for lunch at a pub in a small village somewhere near Bristol. We had jacket potatoes (basically potatoes filled with things, mine was filled with mostly mayonnaise... yuck!) To wash it down, I had the bright idea of having ice cream. Well, I should have known that a pub probably doesn't serve that much ice cream and when it came that was confirmed. We each were served three heaping scoops of what tasted like 20-year old ice cream. It was disgusting!!

Oh well, that behind us, we were off once again. Road tripping with a baby you learn a lot. We learned quite a few songs. Ro is a pretty good baby, but when she starts to cry Fi always sings to her, so we of course joined in. We sang our way through Birmingham and Manchester, speeding our way up North. Only one time our traditional singing didn't really work and we started to get desperate. It was late, we had already stopped for dinner and Ro was really crying. I was in the back trying to keep her calm when I started singing "99 bottles of beer on the wall". Chica and Fi joined in and that child did not sleep until we were at 8 bottles of beer!! I think that was the first time in my life I had actually finished that song.

It was getting really late, but our day wasn't over yet. We called to let the folks at the hostel know we were going to be late, but surprise - we didn't have a reservation there. Fi was beside herself, she was sure we did. After more than a few frantic phone calls later she figured out that a reservation had been made at a different hostel (with a similar name) but this one was a good hour further than the first. Not only was it further, but we had no idea how to get there. We were soon hopelessly lost. It was after 11pm and I was helping to navigate from the back while Fi was driving some of the darkest streets I have ever seen. This place was way off the beaten track in a tiny, tiny village out in the middle of nowhere. At midnight we finally found it and the owner was waiting up for us. We were all so relived to finally be there!

With the bulk of our driving behind us, we had the whole day to explore the Lake District. It's a pristine mountainous area dotted with lakes, rolling green hills, cute rural towns, and lots of sheep. We started our day at the Castlerigg Stone Circle, a circle made up of 38 stones, 90 feet across. It isn't as big as Stonehenge, but impressive none the less. Then we made our way through the towns of Keswick, Buttermere and Cockermouth, where we stopped at the Lakeland Sheep Centre for lunch. We made our way to Ambleside and walked to a waterfall just outside town. This is where we first experienced the little yellow stroller.

It seems that Fi had this little yellow stroller when she was little, in the 70's. Well, somehow it managed to still be around and now it is little Ro's stroller. It does have its advantages: it folds down very compactly which is good for travel. But to its disadvantage, it only has 6 (of 8) operating wheels, you have to stoop over to hold the handles (poor Chica looked like a hunchback pushing that thing), and the strap is so old that you couldn't strap it too tight for fear it would break. That and the fact that Ro could completely stand up and turn around at will. Chica and I though it was funny. Fi loves it and with every snicker was more determined to get as much use out of it as possible.

We still had to get to Scotland where we were staying with Fi's friend, Dona for a couple of nights. On the way we grabbed fish and chips at a tiny mom & pop place in a little town. It was such a local place, I loved it! By the time we got to Dona's place she was already preparing drinks for us. Her house was so cute... actually more like a bungalow than a house. We talked and drank watermelon Bacardi Breezers (they were delicious) until late. I liked Dona right away, she is really great and I can see why she and Fi are such good friends.

We were staying in a small town near Stirling, where Fi's family is originally from, right in the heart of Scotland. Dona and Fi wanted to show us the local sights, and we really were impressed. We hiked to Campbell Castle (my family is descended from clan Campbell so I was thrilled to go there), then to the Wallace Monument (that Fi's great-grandfather helped build), then to Sterling Castle. All the sights were fantastic! I also discovered the Scottish soda called Iron Brew which is very yummy (tastes almost like Juicy Fruit gum).

That night we ate at a local pub and Chica was introduced to haggis, a traditional Scottish dish made with an assortment of meat products and stuffed into an intestine. Sounds gross, but it's actually pretty good. Chica wanted no part of it and was slightly terrified when we made her try it! Dinner was great with drinks and conversation flowing that we hardly noticed that it was already 8pm - the golden hour when kids are no longer welcome in the pub. The manager sheepishly came over and told us, "Sorry ladies, but I'm going to have to ask you to make your way to the door." We bolted out of there as quick as we could, laughing all the way.

In the morning, after a breakfast of porrage (Dona's salty and ours with jam), Chica and I were heading to Edinburgh on our own to continue our adventures. It was time to part ways. I was sad to say goodbye to Fi and Ro. We had spent hours chatting and swapping stories (Chica's recent wedding story is probably the funniest thing I'd ever heard and I didn't mind hearing it again!) and had really gotten to know each other even better - which I didn't think was possible. :)

Stonehenge

Castlerigg Stone Circle

Ice cream in Ambleside (with the little yellow stroler)

Chica & Ro

We pulled over to see what these sheep were so startled by - it turns out it was the farmer on a 4-wheeler that was barreling over the hill (with his sheep dog riding on the back). Too funny.

Touring the beautiful Lake District

Hiking in Scotland

At the Campbell Castle

Chica leaving Sterling Castle - we were one of the last people to leave so we had to use the little door.

Outside Sterling Castle

Welcome to Geneva - she's baaack!

2007-08-27T15:37:00.000+02:00

I'm always happy when good things happen to my friends, and it makes me even happier when that means good things for me! Chica had gotten a rather unexpected nice raise (with back pay) and asked us if we would mind if she came out for visit #2 this year. WOULD WE MIND?!? I was so happy I was ready to do a back flip. Last year when Chica was out we had the some grand adventures and I was thrilled to be spending another crazy summer with her.

She booked her flight and was on her way. We only had solid plans for the first week or so, but I wasn't too worried. The thing about Chica is it really doesn't matter what we are doing, just hanging out or off doing some crazy thing, we always have a great time.

She arrived on a Thursday after a very taxing flight. I wanted to help her get over her jet lag and start her trip off with something fun, so I arranged for us to attend a GoL function called "Glamorous Cocktail Making Evening" - this sounded right up Chica's alley! After dinner outside by the lake, we got gussied up and walked to the nearby bar where we met up with a few other girls (and one brave guy) to learn how to make killer cocktails. One at a time we got our turn to go behind the bar to mix and stir up delicious drinks. Chica got to meet some of my GoL friends and ended up having a fabulous night!

The next day was my birthday! My friend from Germany, Rena, was also having a birthday and we decided celebrate together. That night we met up with our friends at a local bar. Her mom even made German chocolate cake for us to share! Cake really doesn't go with beer, but it was nice to have a cake anyway. :) We partied into the night and those of us who were left decided to head over to a big beach party that was going on across the lake. We met up with even more friends and continued the party there. It was a late night, and Chica was such a trooper fighting her jet lag!

That night we were invited for a wine tasting adventure the very next day! I say adventure because it wasn't your normal wine tasting; this was a "Five Senses" tasting in the Swiss town of Sion. We went with a couple I've known for some time, Keleko and his girlfriend, M (they were also at the murder mystery dinner). I really didn’t know what to expect, but it sounded fun!

We were soon being treated to some of Switzerland’s best wines. There were five stations, each dedicated to a sense, with wine and food samplings. We had a questionnaire form we were to fill out at each station to help teach us a thing or two about what we were eating and drinking. It was so unique. In the end we were given a lesson about blood alcohol and given a breathalyzer test from a local police representative. (Don't worry; we were taking the train back). The surprising thing we learned was if you swish your mouth out with water, your breathalyzer number goes down substantially! Who knew?!?

This was also the first time I got to see Chica's new little travel gadget in action... her new video camera. This little gem would come out quite a bit during her visit (you should ask her to post some of the videos... they are priceless) and captured some great moments I'm still laughing at today!

We were back relatively early, because the next day we were setting out to the UK to meet our friend, Fi. Fi's family is from Scotland and she had been traveling in the UK visiting friends and family for almost a month with her one year old baby, Ro. We were scheduled to meet up with her at Gatwick airport in England (where she was down meeting with her husband's family) and the four of us were to drive to Scotland. That was about all we knew. Again, we really didn't know what to expect, but we were sure that it was going to be a trip to remember! :)

Looking glamorous at the Cocktail Making Evening

The whole group with our nice barman

Birthday girls

At the post-birthday beach party

Wine tasting in Sion

Chica & her new video camera

Mystery, merriment, murder & music

2007-08-07T10:31:00.000+02:00

We had nothing on the agenda for the weekend... a dream come true for G. But it wasn't long before the calendar started filling up. Now by filling up I mean a dinner invite on Friday and a Saturday afternoon at the Montreaux Jazz Festival with our friend, S.

This was the weekend I realized that G and I have very different definitions of "we aren't doing anything this weekend." To me it means we are in Geneva, with no day trips or overnight stays anywhere. To G it means NOTHING - just 24+ glorious hours of staying at home, catching up on things and relaxing. So while I thought we weren’t doing anything much over this weekend, G saw a packed agenda. But he was a good sport and even dressed up for his part.

That's right, we had roles to play. We were headed to a Murder Mystery dinner hosted by our friend from Canada, A. The invitation read: "It’s the summer of Love, July 1967 and London still swings like a pendulum does. In the Chelsea home of Lord Michael Jagged, a select group of fashionable young things have spent the weekend drinking champagne and partying. As the guests gather for dinner on Sunday evening, however, they are met by Scotland Yard..."

I was to play the part of Tamara Fara Bucktooth, the queen of London society - no gossip column is complete without her. And G was Terrance Shrimp, an east end boy who has become a top society photographer - slightly camp. We wore our swinging 60's outfits from Köln and we fit right in. Everyone was in character and looked great. One guy, whose character was of a drunken playboy, came staggering in dressed in a tux and carrying an empty bottle of Dom Pérignon! It was a groovy night baby! :)

The next day we were off to the famous Montreaux Jazz Festival with our friend S, but unfortunately the weather wasn't on our side. After catching one band we were caught in a down pour and it wasn't letting up. We stayed for a while, but soon we were soaking wet so we decided to head back to Geneva. This was my second visit to the festival, both times hiding under an umbrella. Oh well, at least I can say I was there this year!

I'm glad to report that Sunday G got his wish and we did absolutely nothing all day, just relaxing and chilling out at home. So we both had a great weekend in Geneva! :)

Vive la France! ~ our travels continue

2007-08-05T13:07:00.000+02:00

The next morning we were off to Paris to meet G and to celebrate Bastille Day, or "la Fête Nationale" as they say in France. I had been here for the festivities last year with my friend J and it was fantastic! This year I wanted to be sure we had a good spot for the big fireworks show, so the three of us arrived at Champ de Mars, the park in front of the Eiffel Tower, at around 3pm, just to be sure. There was not a cloud in the sky and it was HOT! So hot that G hung out in the shade while my mom and I sat in the middle of the park under our umbrellas. The wait was not in vain. We were treated to a free concert before the main event!

Nelly Furtado, Bob Sinclar, and a couple other bands were the lead up to the headliner - Michel Polnareff! What? Never heard of him? Us either! (G thinks he looks like a cross between Twisted Sister and Elton John). Turns out he is a hugely popular singer from the 70's who was actually exiled from France for tax evasion and has been living in the US for the past 20 years or so. But now he is back and as popular as ever. The girls in front of us (who looked about 25) were crazy for him! I was thrilled when they put the words to some of his songs on the big screens so we could all sing along (even in French).

It turned out to be a fantastic concert! And this was all before the big fireworks show! When the fireworks did start, I was shocked to see everyone still sitting, and when folks up front began to stand, the crowd started chanting for them to sit, "asseoir, asseoir!” But soon everyone was standing, including the group of Japanese folks who were squeezing in on our blanket. But there was happiness in the air and soon we were all squeezed in together and enjoying the spectacular show. The 6 block walk back to our hotel was quite a challenge considering we were walking directly past the nearest Metro stop with nearly a million other people. We could barely walk down the street and when poor G went into a local market to try to buy water, he nearly didn't get out! But despite the crowds, everyone was happy and peaceful and eventually we found our way back.

We had the whole next day before our train back to Geneva, so we went on a walking tour of Rue Cler and then to Les Invalides to see Napoleon's Tomb and the Military museums of WWI & WWII. The museum was very well put together and although it was a bit long, I really liked it. My mom was keen on seeing the Picasso Museum and I was interested in the Carnavalet Museum. But once we dropped my mom off, we realized that we were too tired and a bit museumed-out so G and I hung out in a shady local park until it was time to meet up with my mom again.

Back in Geneva we had little time to rest because early the next morning we were headed to Venice! We arrived at the Venice airport and decided to take a unique form of transport to our hotel... a water bus. It was hot and crowded, but it got us there in good time. Once we got settled we were out on the water again, this time on the Grand Canal where we followed a self-guided tour. In our quest to get the perfect seat up front of the Vaporetto, we ended up going way past the touristy areas to one of the first stops on the line. By the time we got back to Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square), it was time for dinner!

Early the next morning I went for a run (I went running in Amsterdam too) and realized I really love to get out before all the tourists are about and get a quick work out in. It's a great way to start the day. My mom spent the morning touring Doge's Palace and St. Mark's Basilica while I shopped at my favorite Italian clothing shop, Nuna Lie. A place full of stylish and cheap clothes that I discovered last year. In the afternoon we went on a walking tour of Venice which I loved, because we got off the beaten track and into the back streets. We grabbed a late lunch by the Rialto Bridge and then went on another self-guided walking tour to the Frari Church, doing a little shopping here and there along the way. On our way back, we wandered into St. Mark's Square and stumbled upon a movie set! Some unknown actress was singing in front of a whole lot of extras (hopefully getting some free drinks for their trouble). That night we ate at very traditional Venetian place with great food. We even got a goodie bag of fresh baked cookies that they brought with the bill!

On our last day we decided to take a closer look at St. Mark's Basilica and got in line almost an hour early to beat the crowd. I made use of the time by feeding the pigeons in the square and trying to get a good picture of them. Soon we were back on the boat for the airport and in Geneva by the early afternoon. That night I had to go to my Toastmaster's meeting and my mom was nice enough to come along. She said she really liked the meeting, even though there was a little pressure for her (and the other guests) to get up and talk! It was a nice way to end the week and a half my mom was out. I still can't believe how much we had seen and done in such a short time. Now I see where I get my travel stamina from! :)

Trying to beat the heat on the Champ de Mars in front of the Eiffel Tower

Waiting for the concert to start on the Champ de Mars

The crowds at the Eiffel Tower on July 14th

Fireworks!

In front of Napoleon’s Tomb in Paris

In front of the Rialto Bridge

Handmade Venetian masks

I didn't have a scarf or sweater to drape over my shoulders when we went into the cathedrals, so I improvised and used my new dress!

On the set of a movie in St. Mark's Square

Pigeons in St. Mark's Square

Off the beaten path in the Low Countries

2007-08-04T10:30:00.000+02:00

The day after we returned from our whirlwind trip through Scandinavia and Russia, my mom flew in for a visit. We had a packed agenda; Amsterdam, Luxembourg, Paris, and Venice. But first we were planning on spending a couple days in Geneva. I was looking forward to spending time with my mom and all the places we were going, but I was also happy to spend time at home before hitting the road again.

G had the day off so we all decided to head over to the UN. G had never been on the tour so I figure this was the perfect chance. After, my mom and I headed over to the Red Cross Museum, which is just across the street. G decided to meet us back at home, his museum fatigue was showing. :) The next day we ventured out to the Montreux Jazz Festival, but because of the rain, it turned out that there really wasn't much to listen to or see.

Soon we were off to Amsterdam. We arrived at the hotel and discovered that we had two stories of VERY steep stairs to climb, just to get to the reception desk! The people at the hotel were so nice, offering us a free drink and even breakfast before we headed out for the day. But my favorite breakfast place was just around the corner, and they have free internet to boot! We stepped in there for a bagel, coffee, and a little planning. We were only going to be in town for two days so we wanted to make the most of our short visit.

Our first day's plan was packed with the Van Gogh Museum, the Rijksmuseum, a canal cruise, and of course dinner. Since I'd been to the museums before, I did a little shopping and cafe sitting while my mom enjoyed the sights. I met up with her and we cruised the canals. The craziest thing about the day was that despite it being mid-July, it was freezing! I actually wore a scarf to keep the cold away! It didn't deter our sightseeing any though, and the rain was staying away, so I was happy. Before dinner we stumbled across an exhibit of wildlife photography and I was tempted to buy a big book of the exhibit. But since it weighed about 10 pounds, I passed so I didn't have to haul it around for the rest of the week. We found a restaurant that turned out to be one of the best restaurants I have ever eaten at! The Cafe Restaurant de Reiger is a wonderful local eetcafé in the Jordan district complete with wonderful ambiance and delicious food. Next time I'm in town I will definitely eat here again.

The next day my mom decided to visit the Anne Frank house and take a bus/boat tour of the city. I caught the train to Haarlem, a cute little town about 15 minutes from Amsterdam that is packed with sights. I started in the Market Square (Grote Markt). I was hungry and wanted some fast, local cuisine, so I opted for the little fried dough balls called Oliebollen (it was either that or raw herring from the fish stand). After visiting the Grote Kerk (the church), I headed over to the Tylers Museum. This is the oldest museum in Holland and it is almost like going back in time, almost like a museum of a museum. It is filled with all kinds of curiosities and is an amazing place for science buffs. From fossils and minerals to all sorts of inventions. The very first telephone is displayed here, and like almost everything else, it still has its original label. I couldn’t get enough of this place.

It was time to head back, but I figured I had just enough time for a quick tour of the De Adriaan Windmill, Haarlem’s old-time windmill. What I didn't realize is that you can only see the windmill with a tour guide and I ended up with my own private tour by a very nice old guy. I didn't want to rush him, but I had little time to get back. The tour was really great, but as soon as it was over I made a mad dash to the train station.

I was only a little late, and thankfully my mom waited for me! We had a reservation for a tour of the Red Light District. I was a bit nervous about going on this tour with my mom, but the guide was really good and it wasn't too risqué! After dinner we headed back to the hotel to find the room filled with flowers - a beautiful bouquet and a single rose in a vase. We figures it was from Mr. F, my step-dad who sent them for their wedding anniversary, but the tag said it was from the Nadia Hotel! The mystery was solved the next morning when we were checking out (at 5:30am), we got a call from the hotel manager thanking us for our stay and wishing my mom a happy anniversary. Now that is great service!

We were up so early because we had a very busy day. We were on our way to Luxembourg, but on the way we decided to spend a few hours in the unofficial capital of Europe, Brussels. We concentrated our sightseeing to the area around the Grand Place, Brussels' main square. We followed a walking tour from our book which took about two hours, seeing the Town Hall, chocolate shops, lace shops, the Church of St. Nicolas, Galeries Royales St. Hubert (Europe's oldest shopping mall), and of course the statue of the little boy peeing, Manneken-Pis. But we didn't have all day; we had to get to Luxembourg by the afternoon, because we were only staying there one night.

Luxembourg City is compact and had much more to see than I thought. We started with a little hop-on hop-off bus tour that was a great way to get orientated. We then toured the Cathedral of Notre Dame and the fortifications (the maze of cavers dug out to protect the city) before walking through town and finding a place to eat. We were warned that the whole town closes up around 6pm and they weren't kidding. We were on a search for a couple postcards and a cup of coffee, which we finally found at a tabac stand on the edge of town! We stumbled across a lively square lined with restaurants and a band playing in the center. We grabbed an outside table and enjoyed the music and nice weather.

We were set to meet up with G in Paris for the "la Fête Nationale" (or Bastille Day) on July 14th. That morning we decided to buy a couple cheap blankets to sit on before the fireworks and we were lucky to find a little shop that sold them. So, blankets in hand we zipped off to Paris for the festivities.

Touring the UN

Near our hotel in Amsterdam (and just around the corner from the Anne Frank House)

Me & my scarf in Amsterdam - Burr!

The De Adriaan Windmill in Haarlem

Tylers Museum of Haarlem: like a museum of museums

Shopping at Galeries Royales St. Hubert in Brussels

Manneken-Pis, the most famous statue in Brussels

Outside the fortifications of Luxembourg City

Overlooking the edge of Luxembourg City's Old Town

Enjoying some hard to find coffee in Luxembourg

The band we enjoyed during dinner in Luxembourg

From Russia with Love

2007-08-02T21:10:00.000+02:00

I've been fascinated with Russia since I was young, when the USSR was draped behind the iron curtain. I was a big fan of Gorbachev and followed the end of the cold war closely. Now, we finally had the opportunity to visit Russia and we eagerly took the opportunity.

Our trip through Scandinavia and Russia continued as we flew from Oslo to St. Petersburg (Санкт-Петербург). On the flight we were each given an immigration form and a customs declaration form. We had read that we should declare anything of value, like our cameras and wedding rings, otherwise when we leave we could be forced to pay duty on them. So, we filled out our forms. After collecting our single bag, we waited in a line that had a big sign that read "CUSTOMS" above it. After about 40 minutes we got to the front and the man yelled at me that we need TWO forms each. Great. So we got out of line and filled out another duplicate form and got back in line. After another half hour or so we were back to the front of the line. "How many bags did you loose?!?" Yelled the customs officer, "What?" "HOW MANY BAGS DID YOU LOOSE?!?" "Uh, none... at least none today." He then ripped up my forms and waved me to get out of the way. We were a little confused to say the least.

Oh well, we left the airport, no questions asked. I was just hoping that we wouldn't have any trouble when we were set to fly home, but that was yet to be seen. We were warned about taxis in St. Petersburg and opted for the public bus. We were supposed to take the yellow K3 which ended up being a private "minibus" called a marshrutkas. These busses run all over the city and you can get on or off wherever you want. We only paid 15 rubles each (or about .60 cents) for the 45 minute ride. It was a bit chaotic though, there were 10 seats but at any one time there were up to 12 people and quite a few big suitcases. It was crazy, and we weren't really sure where to get off, but a nice local couple helped us find our way. Needless to say we were the only non-Russians on the bus; we didn't waste any time getting a real local experience!

Our hotel was a bit hard to find. It was in a residential neighborhood, pretty far from the touristy area in a very non-descript building. There wasn't even a sign to indicate there was any kind of business there, let alone a hotel. But inside was fantastic! We had a huge room and the staff was really nice. But we weren't there to hang out in our hotel, so we made the 45 minute walk to the historic heart of town.

Our first stops were St. Isaac's Cathedral (Исаакиевский собор) and The Bronze Horseman statue (Медный всадник)of Peter the Great. This statue seems to be the spot where every bride in St. Petersburg comes to take pictures because we saw at least 10 bridal parties in the short time we were there. As we walked along toward Palace Square we noticed some very dark clouds forming, and unfortunately for all those brides the sky was about to open up and pour with rain. It started to rain so hard and so fast that we literary had to run and take shelter under a tree. Even with our one umbrella we soon were soaked. We sat under the tree for about a half hour trying to figure out where we can go to get out of the miserable weather. We decided to have an early dinner and when there was a break in the rain we made a dash for it. We had to go about a half mile to the restaurant and barely made it before it started to pour once again. We ate at a place called Pogreba Monakha, The Monk’s Cellar, a traditional Russian place complete with a cheesy little band that played cover songs. It was fantastic!

After dinner we were wandering through town (the rain had stopped for the evening) and I heard what I thought was Elton John... and it sounded like a live concert. We followed the sounds through the streets and there was Elton John giving a concert right in the Palace Square. We couldn't get into the paid area, but happily discovered that the free area was really quite close and we still had a great view of the stage. There were thousands of people there, singing and dancing, behind the line of Russian police that were keeping folks out of the paid area. We caught the last 45 minutes of so of the concert, it was great! All the way back to the hotel I was singing, "Hey Nikita is it cold, in your little corner of the world..."

The concert totally reminded me of the time Genentech flew in Elton John (along with Mary J. Blige and Matchbox 20) to South City for a big concert a couple of years ago to commemorate the releasing of three drugs in a single year. Chica and I were about three people from the stage and it was fantastic! Oh, the good old days... But I digress...

So back to St. Petersburg... our first day had been amazing and there was still more to come! The next morning we were up early to get our place in line for the Hermitage (Государственный Эрмитаж). What is it? Well, Lonely Planet describes it like this: "There are art galleries, there are museums, there are great museums of the world and then there is the Hermitage." It is one of the largest and oldest museums in the world, encompassing six huge buildings, including the Winter Palace. Not only is the enormous collection of art impressive, but the buildings and rooms themselves could be a museum all by themselves. It is a truly impressive place. We spent the better part of the day here and we were a little overwhelmed once we left. This place definitely deserves a second visit!

Once outside we opted to go on a canal tour, unfortunately all the commentary was in recorded Russian and then, about 10 minutes after we left the dock, it started to rain again! We huddled under our umbrellas listening to the drab voice go on and on about this or that. The rain stopped just long enough to get a great first view of the Summer Gardens and The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood (Храм Спаса на Крови), the multi-domed church that is one of the most recognizable symbols of St. Petersburg.

After the cruise we were headed down Nevsky Prospekt, the best shopping street in the city, when G was pick pocketed and his Blackberry was stolen. It was actually a team of guys and they were good. We realized it a couple minutes later and thanks to us ducking into a hotel to use their internet so he could let his IT department know, his phone was shut down and deactivated in just a couple of hours (not bad for a Sunday).

Our next stop was The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood and it was absolutely beautiful, inside and out. There was a small street market (Vernisazh) around the corner and we ended up doing most of our souvenir shopping there. We bought two matryoshka dolls (the wooden dolls that stack inside each other) as well as some other Russian classics. Dinner was at a hole-in-the-wall spot called "Propaganda" that served classic Russian food and local vodka with Soviet style KGB decor complete with books lining the walls and other interesting interior design. It was a great spot for dinner.

The next morning we braved a taxi to be at the gate of the Peter and Paul Fortress (Петропавловская крепость) when it opened. The whole island had been closed since we had arrived because the princess of Thailand was in town and for whatever reason this is where all her official business took place. Unfortunately we learned that the fortress (along with the Peter and Paul Cathedral) wouldn't be open until that afternoon, after we would be on our way back to the airport. So, we will just have to save that for the next trip. Instead we walked the long way back, by the Artillery Museum and Strelka of Vasilevsky Island where the Stock Exchange and Rostral Columns are. This is also the place with some of the best views of the city.

We took our time going back, zigzagging through neighborhoods we hadn't discovered yet and stocking up on a few more souvenirs and a good bottle of vodka. We walked most of the day and poor G had some terrible blisters that had been getting worse and worse every day (thanks to some cheap socks he picked up in Denmark). Once back at the hotel we opted for a taxi to the airport, since the marshrutkas bus we needed was about a mile from where we were and G's feet were in no shape to walk any further!

Just when we thought we were safe, one last little snag was yet to come. We decided to buy one more bottle of vodka in the airport and asked for the receipt and if it would be okay to carry it on. "No problem" we were told. It was no problem in St. Petersburg, but in Stockholm we had to make a connection (with about 70% of the rest of the people on our flight) and there was a problem there. We had to pass though a security check point literally steps from getting off our first flight to get to our connecting gate. When the security guy started taking away people's vodka, the lady behind us started to flip out. Almost everyone on the flight had bought vodka at the shop inside the St. Petersburg airport, but since none of the bottles had been sealed inside a plastic bag, they were confiscating them all. The gal behind us wasn't going to give up without a fight and started yelling, "You Swedes are going to drink all of our vodka!" Then the police were called. We gave up our bottle (we had another in our checked suitcase that made it back just fine) because we didn't want to miss our connection, but I've never seen anything like it at a security check point before in my life!

We made it back home with our remaining bottle of vodka and our new luggage. Our travel packs that were lost 9 days earlier still were no where to be found. The guy in the Geneva airport told G that there were currently 22,000 pieces of unclaimed luggage at Heathrow. Crazy! G's pack showed up a few days later, but mine seemed to be lost for good. Then one day about 4 weeks later I got word that they were trying to deliver it to our apartment in Geneva (despite us telling them to deliver it to G's office). Great!

I sat around the house for two days afraid that I would miss the delivery and it would return to the abyss, never to be seen again. Then I got a call from G's mom in California. "Is your bag green?" She asked. "Yes, why?" "Well, it arrived at my house today via FedEx." Unbelievable! My luggage tags have our Geneva address on them! We figured that they took the billing address from when we bought the tickets and just sent them there. Like I said... UNBELIEVABLE! Chica was coming out the next week and she was nice enough to bring my long lost bag along. After almost 6 weeks I had my bag again! A happy ending at last. :)

On the roof of St. Isaac's Cathedral overlooking Mariinsky Palace

Bridal party in front of the Bronze Horseman statue of Peter the Great

Storm clouds moving in fast over The Admiralty

The Elton John concert in Palace Square

Listening to the audio guide in the Hermitage

View of Palace Square from the Hermitage

Our very wet canal cruise through St. Petersburg

G in front of his alma mater, Baskin-Robbins. Do you think they have 31 flavors?

The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, one of the most recognizable symbols of St. Petersburg

Inside The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood

At the Artillery Museum

Me on a neighborhood bridge

Our very non-descript hotel

Saint-Nicholas Marine Cathedral, down the street from our hotel

Tusen takk (a "thosand thanks") Scandinavia

2007-08-01T10:30:00.000+02:00

Ignorance is bliss, or so they say. If we had only known how much hassle, trouble, and headaches we were in for we may have never gone. But thankfully we didn't know exactly what lay in store and we were off, wide eyed and eager for 9 days in Scandinavia and Russia. I was so excited I could hardly wait to get going, but first we had to take care of our visas.

As an American wanting to go to Russia, there is a lengthy and expensive visa application process you have to go through. First you need an invitation to visit from a hotel ($$), then you fill out a very detailed application form (they wanted to know everything!), then you take these plus your passport and quite a bit of cash to your local Russian embassy. After waiting over two hours in line I had dropped off our passports and then had to return (for another 2 hour wait) on a different day to pick them up. Oh, and once we arrived at our hotel in Russia, we had to "register" our visas which cost us even more money. All in all the visas cost us about $450... a bit steep for a little sticker. But we paid up and with our visas in hand we were on our way.

Our first stop was Copenhagen, Denmark. This was one of the places I had really been looking forward to visiting, since my grandfather (by marriage) is Danish and was born here. We flew British Airways (BA) through Heathrow which was a big mistake. We arrived just fine, but our luggage was nowhere to be found. We met a nice couple from Arizona who were in the same jam and we were all told our bags would be delivered in 3-4 days. No problem, but in 4 days we were flying to Oslo. With just the clothes on our backs we headed into town and settled in for a quiet evening.

The next day we headed to the town of Roskilde to see the Viking Ship Museum. We didn't realize that the day we went was also the opening day of the Roskilde Festival, one of the largest music festivals in Europe. We would have loved to go, but we didn't have boots for the mud and the tickets (which started at around $270) were sold out. But at the museum we were treated to our own festival; a medieval festival, complete with battling Vikings, Nordic food, and loads of craft smiths.

Back in Copenhagen we took a canal cruise before heading over to Christiania, a partially self-governing neighborhood of about 850 residents. It is a mix of hippies, idealists, potheads, and nonmaterialists. This is such a cool place, we decided to take an evening wander and have a couple beers at the open air bar called "Nemoland" where we listened to a groovy band. We stayed until the rain came, and then we retreated to a fantastic waterside restaurant where we ate outside, under cover of course.

The next day we went on two walking tours (one around town and one at the Rosenborg Castle), saw the very tiny and overcrowded "Little Mermaid", and ate a traditional Danish pub lunch of meatballs and herring. We had been relatively lucky with the weather, but now we were caught in a downpour! We still did not have our luggage (and no word on when we would get it), so we bought new umbrellas and decided this was a good time to do a little shopping. We were still hopeful we would get our bags, but the BA automated phone system kept hanging up on us and the BA website reported "Tracing continues... please check back later." Hmmm... not good.

The rains passed just long enough for us to enjoy an evening at the Tivoli Gardens, which opened in 1843 making it one of the oldest amusement parks in the world. We had a great time, riding the rollercoaster and walking the grounds of the park. We had stopped to listen to a band when there were our lost-luggage Arizona friends we had met at the airport! We couldn't believe it. Unfortunately they hadn't had any luck getting their bags either and we were all set to sail out of town the next day. Them on a week long cruise through the Nordics and us on overnight ferry ship to Oslo.

Our ship wasn't set to sail until 17:00, so we were able to visit the Frederiksborg Palace in Hillerød the next morning. Back in Copenhagen we had just enough time to visit the National Museum and check back with our hotel to see if, by any chance, our bags had been dropped off by the airline, but no luck. So, with only a little backpack with a few clothes in it, we boarded our ship to Oslo, "The Pearl of Scandinavia". As we sailed away we sat on the deck and sipped beers from the bar. The ship was fantastic, almost like a cruise ship with swimming pools, restaurants, bars, and even a casino. It was so relaxing and just what we needed.

We arrived in Oslo at 9:30 to a complete down pour! We scrambled to a city bus and by the time we got to our hotel we were soaking wet! We really didn't have much to change into, but we were determined to make the most of our time here and we got right into the sight seeing. We took a tour of the City Hall and the bell tower (we even had a private concert by the carillonneur, the musician who plays the bells which can be heard all over Oslo). We also went on a free tour of the Akershus Fortress (the old castle built to defend the city) with the rudest tour group I have ever seen! These people were unreal, pushing their way to the front, videotaping and photographing the tour guides from inches away, and being so rude that they had to be repeatedly reprimanded. We escaped to the Norwegian Resistance Museum and learned that one of the first German ships sunk off the coast of Norway in WWII shares its name with us! The things you learn on holiday.

We were now resolved to the fact that we weren't going to see our bags and decided to buy a piece of proper luggage (something "checkable") and purchase a few more basic clothes to get us through the rest of our trip (5 more days). Too bad we were in one of the most expensive cities in Europe, but what could we do? Our bags were still listed as "missing" so we instructed BA to send it back to Geneva and listed G's office address to be sure someone would be there to claim it. To get our mind off all the things we had to buy, we took a walk around the Vigeland Sculpture Park and ate dinner at the harbor front, just before another rain shower.

On our last day in Oslo we took a ferry to the nearby Bygdøy peninsula where we visited The Viking Ship Museum, The Norwegian Folk Museum, The Fram Museum, and The Kon-Tiki Museum. We got back just in time to catch an afternoon cruise through the Oslo Fjords, the bay dotted with islands and inlets. It was beautiful, and I can now see why Norwegian Fjord cruises are so popular. But about halfway into our 2 1/2 hour voyage, the sky opened up. This was the rain to end all rain. I have seen some crazy rain here in Europe, but this was one of the most impressive down pours I have ever experienced. We nibbled on griddlecakes & dried fish and waited out the storm.

We arrived back in port safe & sound and managed to squeeze in a little more shopping before heading out to dinner. We traveled about a 1/2 hour outside of town to the Frognerseteren Hovedrestaurant, an old classy sod-roofed restaurant nestled high in the forested hills overlooking Oslo harbor (1,400 feet about sea level). It was one of the coolest places I have ever eaten! I loved every moment of it. They are famous for their apple cake (which was very good), but our dinners were absolutely mouth watering! It was a hike to get there and back (we actually passed the ski jump from the 1994 Lillehammer Olympics), but it was totally worth it!

I really love Scandinavia. There is so much to see and do, but for me my favorite part is the friendly people. I love the local languages; from the "hey" of Sweden to the "takk" of Denmark. When I thanked the pub owner in Copenhagen for lunch with a "tusen takk" (a "thousand thanks"), he asked if I spoke Danish! A girl in the mountain top restaurant in Oslo greeted me with a friendly "hi hi!" and I was grinning from ear to ear. It’s all those friendly encounters and connecting with people that really make traveling fun for me!

The next morning, with our new luggage in hand, we were off to Russia and all the new adventures that awaited us...

In front of Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen

Freetown Christiania mural at the entrance of the neighborhood

Traditional pub lunch in Copenhagen

Our Hans Christian Anderson tour guide in Copenhagen

Evening falls in the Tivoli Gardens

The Little Mermaid statue sits on a rock in the Copenhagen harbor

Frederiksborg Palace in Hillerød

In the Vigeland Sculpture Park in Oslo

G on the Fram polar ship in Oslo

The papyrus boat Ra II in the Kon-Tiki Museum

At the Oslo Viking Ship Museum

The view of Oslo's harbor from the mountain top Frognerseteren Hovedrestaurant

The ski jump from the 1994 Lillehammer Olympics, just outside Oslo

Storm of the Century!

2007-07-22T16:53:00.000+02:00

This storm woke us up out of a sound sleep. The thunder was so loud that it was practically shaking the building. I've never seen anything like it and these pictures made the front page of the local paper. Our flat is on the far left side of the pictures below, right in the heart of the storm. Wild!

Travels with The Gnome

2007-07-21T16:36:00.000+02:00

Not two weeks earlier I was helping my friend "Aer" buy her ticket to Geneva and now she was here! This was Aer's first trip to Europe and she was eager to see as much as possible. We had a packed itinerary for the week she was in town and we certainly didn't waste any time. By lunch on that first day, we were already headed up to the picturesque town of Gruyères.

We went to Gruyères (famous for its cheese) with a Geneva friend of mine who is also originally from California. The weather was fantastic as we zipped through the countryside. Once there, we headed straight for the castle that sits on the hilltop above the medieval town. But the real treat is the town itself. It was a perfect place for lunch and a great way to introduce Aer to traditional Swiss cuisine and drink. We all had "Cheese on Toast" of different varieties. This is basically a deep dish with a piece of French bread at the bottom covered with things like ham, eggs, and LOTS of Gruyeres cheese. To accompany such a heavy meal we all ordered Panaché, a drink of half lemonade and half beer. Aer was a little hesitant, but after just one she was hooked... it became her favorite drink of the week. :)

The next day we were off to see a bit of France and the Alps. Aer had seen the Alps from the plane and wanted to get a closer look. From Geneva the best place to go is the French town of Chamonix, which sits on the Italian boarder. We ascended by cable car to the Aiguille du Midi, a rocky outcrop that sits 12,605 feet above sea level. We had a great view of the Mont-Blanc (which you can see from our street in Geneva - on a clear day).

It was here that I was introduced to "The Gnome". It seems that Aer's husband is very attached to this little garden gnome that used to live inside the house (much to the chagrin of Aer). So one day the gnome decided to take a vacation and he began to tour the world. Aer's husband gets random pictures in the mail from the gnome from all the great places he's been visiting. So, here we were at the top of the French Alps and the gnome came out of Aer's bag and we started snapping pictures. We got a few strange looks and had to explain to a couple of bewildered tourists, but I really got a kick out of it!

We came down off the mountain just in time... the weather was taking a turn for the worst. We had the whole afternoon so we decided to head over to my favorite place to take out-of-towners... Annecy. This postcard-perfect lakefront town is the perfect setting for a relaxing stroll and leisurely dinner. And to make things even better we managed to outrun the bad weather and were able to enjoy this cute town basking in the sunshine.

We didn't realize how lucky we were with the weather until we were returning to Geneva where it began to pour and one of the most amazing thunder storms I had ever seen set in for the night. The thunder was so loud that it woke me up out of a dead sleep and gave little Scout quite a scare. The next morning we were on a train to Paris and the rain was still coming down in buckets. It was like nothing I had ever seen. I realized that morning that I didn't know what happens when lightning hits a train. Are we grounded to something? It was a little unnerving.

Thankfully we made it to Paris without getting electrocuted and we had also, once again, outrun the bad weather. It was another busy day as we tried to fit in all the usual tourist stops. We dashed to the Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe (with more pictures of the gnome), and the Champs-Elysees. The last time I had had a drink near the Champs-Elysees was on New Years 2006 with P & K, four drinks that night costs us 94 Euros! This time we each got a beer at McDonalds (hey, I had never had a beer from McDonalds before!) and it was quite a bit cheaper! :)

We were in Paris during the Fête de la Musique which was great because we were able to hear a little music before (and during) our typical 3 hour Parisian dinner. The best part about dinner for me was the atypical good service from the Parisian waiters. They were so sweet to us, even discouraging me from ordering the stew which turned out to be a big bowl of bones and fat (not good at all... I should have listened!)

We also got great service from our waiter at breakfast the next morning. "Welcome to Paris" he beamed. We had stopped for breakfast on our way to the Louvre (after a somewhat disappointing jaunt over to the Moulin Rouge). We only had four hours to wander Europe's oldest and greatest museum before we were to catch our train back to Geneva. Once again the weather had caught up with us and it was pouring again, but it didn't matter because we were undercover the rest of our time and soon we were back in sunny Geneva.

It was time for the Fête de la Musique in Geneva and despite all my raving about how good it had been the year before, everything we saw (and heard) was pretty dismal. There was a small group of us and despite the multitude of stages and venues we came across, nothing was really that good. Aer summed it up best when she said, "Like my mama always says, there ain't no such thing as a free music festival!"

After an afternoon wandering the town of Yvoire on the French side of Lake Geneva, we were back at the Fête for one more try. We had almost given up when we discovered a great French band called "Par la Lumière de la Lune" (or "By the Light of the Moon"), but unfortunately they had no CD to sell and no web site. At least we finally heard some decent music!

On Aer's last day we zipped down to Milan with G to give her a little taste of Italy. One again we were blessed with sunshine and warm weather. Besides getting eaten alive by mosquitoes, we had a fantastic day climbing to the roof of the Duomo and eating gelato. I always love a good gelato!

Although it was a hectic week we had a fantastic time, Aer is a great travel companion and we just had so much fun! I was truly amazed at Aer's ability to be totally unaffected by jet lag (or she just hid it really well) and her gift of monkey calls (you will have to ask her about that one!) ;) I was also amazed that despite the worst week of weather we have had in quite a while, we somehow managed to dodge the worst of it and find the sun wherever we went. I'm convinced now that Aer is a good weather magnet, because the evening after she left it rained for almost two solid weeks... Hurry back soon! :)

Climbing the castle wall in Gruyères

Freezing at the top of the Aiguille du Midi, high above the town of Chamonix

Hanging out in Annecy - those are the shoes of these guys that were jumping off the bridge into the crystal clear waters below

At the Eiffel Tower

Having a beer on the Champs-Elysees (yes, at McDonalds)

Beautiful Paris at night

At the Fête de la Musique in Geneva

Overlooking Lake Geneva in the medieval town of Yvoire

"Par la Lumière de la Lune" at the Fête de la Musique in Geneva

On the roof of the Duomo in Milan

Shopping at Prada in Milan

Thank you for flying Continental Airlines...

2007-07-20T13:06:00.000+02:00

So after two great weeks in the US I was heading back home to Geneva on what I thought was going to be an easy flight. SFO to Newark to Geneva. One stop. Two hour layover. Easy peasy.

I left for the airport at 4:30am to catch my 7am flight. The flight was on time and everything was going great until we got over Ohio and the pilot came on the intercom. "We have a bit of a storm ahead of us and air traffic control is holding all flights into New York, so we are going to circle a bit and see what happens." Well, 20 minutes turned into an hour and soon we were landing in Cincinnati to refuel. At first the pilot told us to stay on board, it maybe only a few minutes before we would be able to leave. But after another hour we were allowed to get off the plane but had to check in every half hour incase we got the green light to take off again.

FOUR hours later we were airborne again. I had missed my connection to Geneva, but I felt lucky because there was talk about us staying the night in Cincinnati, but I had overheard the somewhat overwhelmed gate agent say that there were no rooms in the whole region due to some sporting tournament going on. New York had more flight options and more hotel rooms... or so I thought.

About 70% of the folks on my flight had had a connection to somewhere in Europe, but by the time we had finally landed at 9pm, only one family had a chance to make their connecting flight to Rome. We all got out of the way and cheered them on as they ran off the plane. The rest of us were told to head to the Continental Customer Service desk next to gate 90 inside the terminal. Little did we know that almost every passenger on every delayed flight into Newark was heading to the same place.

I rounded the corner and could not believe my eyes. A line of approximately 300 people were waiting to reschedule their flights with a grand total of 5 customer service agents. I instantly got on my cell phone to try to rebook, but I was told that the next flight to Geneva with a free seat was on Friday, FOUR days later! I tried to get a seat on another airline, but was told since the storm was an "act of God", Continental was not required to put me on another airline. The best they could do was to get me to Brussels the next day. "But how am I going to get to Geneva?" I asked. "I'm sorry but Continental does not fly internationally outside the US, you have to get there yourself.” My patients were beginning to grow a bit thin.

Within an hour of getting in line I had made friends with my fellow stranded passengers who were having just as much trouble with the Continental phone operators. Yet another troubling development had arisen in the front of the line. We noticed that those lucky folks at the front were leaving looking quite pissed off clutching an airline pillow and a thin blue blanket. Uuuuuhhhh... aren't we supposed to be put up in a hotel?

It was now 10pm and there were no more hotel rooms to be had (I got word that no one was given accommodations, even those in the front of the line) and the line had grown by more then 200 people. In our first hour we had moved maybe 10 feet toward the ever elusive customer service desk. Things were looking bleak. I was in for the long hall though and settled in and chatted with my newfound compatriots.

The folks in line were surprisingly well behaved, with only an occasional outburst from an angry passenger from the front of the line who had waited a long time to get no help once at the desk. It was now 3am, and we had been in line for five hours when a group of official looking Continental employees came to announce that the customer service desk would be closing in 15 minutes. WHAT?!? I honestly thought a riot was going to break out. What were we supposed to do? How were we going to reschedule our flights and where were we supposed to sleep?!? People were flipping out.

Someone at Continental realized that closing the desk was not a great idea, and they kept it open for a while. But then, at 4am they announced that the customer service crew currently at the desk were leaving and a "night crew" would be in to replace them in 20 minutes. We were all given a pillow and blanket and expected to sleep in line. By now I was only about 30 people from the front, but after a half hour of no one at the desk I gave up. I spent 7 1/2 hours in line for absolutely nothing. I had to sleep, so I wandered off to catch an hour of sleep on the floor of gate 87.

We were told to go down to collect our luggage at 6am, but I had no flight to send it on to. I was told I could pick it up myself and recheck in when I did get a flight, but it was a 2-3 hour wait. I was so tired I didn't even care. I found a flight reschedule desk upstairs and after only two hours in that line I had been rebooked for a flight that evening to Paris and then onto Geneva. I also had $16 worth of food vouchers for my trouble.

I now had 9 hours to kill before my flight and I did not want to spend one more minute in the airport, so I re-routed my luggage and caught a train into Manhattan. It was great to have a change of scenery. New York was wonderful, but I was bummed when I found that there was nowhere to leave my very heavy carry-on bag, so I had to lug it around while I roamed around the city. I was in a great mood though, I had a flight and soon my crazy journey would be over. It was good I didn't know what still lay in store.

On my flight to Paris I was instantly asleep, almost missing the meal. I was exhausted but looking forward to an uneventful flight. It was not meant to be... two and a half hours from Paris there was a medical emergency and the cabin crew requested help. I volunteered but hoped there were more qualified people to tend to the elderly man who had passed out and was now throwing up in the back of the plane. Turns out it was just me, and a doctor who did absolutely nothing! I ended up sitting with the very altered man for the remainder of the flight, giving him oxygen and monitoring his vital signs. So much for a relaxing flight.

I handed off the man to the French paramedics (that was a challenging report to give) and of course I missed my flight to Geneva! I had to get rescheduled again and then I almost missed that flight! I had to go through the slowest security line in history and then my gate was the very last one, so I was literally sprinting through the terminal, trying not to knock people over.

I was finally in Geneva and my luggage was no where to be found, which did not surprise me at all. After an hour wait to file a report I was on the train home. I got home almost exactly 48 hours after leaving for the airport in San Francisco (not including the time change). 48 hours to make what was supposed to be a 14 hour flight. Unbelievable.

The good news is that 3 weeks after all of this madness I received a nice letter from Continental thanking me for assisting with the medical emergency and offered to add 25,000 mileage points to my frequent flier card. Nice, but I think it will be a long time before I fly with them again!

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times...

2007-07-19T16:35:00.000+02:00

I know, I know... I've been way behind with the blog. Backdating entries, sporadic tales of our travels from months ago, weeks with no updates. Yes, the signs are all there... I've been a very bad blogger. It’s good because I've been on the go, almost constantly. But it's bad because I've had no time to keep up with things at home, like e-mails and such. But after a weekend of catching up with friends in Geneva and a spring cleaning of our flat, I'm now determined to catch up and get current with the blog by Thursday when Chica arrives from California.

So we kicked off our summer with a trip to the US. G had a business meeting and I hadn't been back for over 6 months, so I figured it was time to head home for a little visit. My first stop was Florida to see my grandparents and my aunt and uncle. The visit was short, but as always I had so much fun. I got to see my grandparent’s new place they had moved into a few months ago. I loved it and had a great time meeting the new neighbors, one of which knew Jimmy Carter growing up. I also had the chance to go on the maiden voyage of the new RV my aunt and uncle recently bought. The weather wasn't cooperating, but we didn't let the rain damper our jaunt down to Key Largo.

I flew into SF just in time to attend a surprise birthday party for our friend Lid (my apologies, I've never been great at giving pseudo names to folks in my blog). The party was a blast with so many of my friends there for the big celebration. But my trip wasn't all good times... the next day instead of wake boarding with G, Clarence, and Chica, I was in Woodland attending a CPR class. I made up for my long and boring 8 hours of class by getting together with a few of my Vacaville friends (now transplanted to SacTown). It was great to catch up. The great surprise of the evening was helping Ari (another attempt at a pseudo name) buy her ticket to Switzerland for two weeks later!

The rest of the week was split between lunch and dinner dates with friends and family and working to keep my EMT certification current. I took a three day EMT refresher course that was long, but surprisingly very good. The week ended with a big dinner with G's side of the family when we had a big "Christmas in June" dinner at Celia's, my favorite Mexican place. I actually ate here earlier in the week too, but I just can't get enough good Mexican food when I'm home.

The last hurrah was a big dinner in SF with some of our closest friends. Gary's guy from the Swiss office was also there. I was having such a good time I completely forgot to take a single picture!! I couldn't believe it! It was a great way to end a wonderful week back home.

I was out the door at 4:30am to catch my 7am flight to Newark and then on to Geneva. One stop. Easy, right? Well, this is where the good times ended and my nightmare began...

Go Pepperdine!

Happy Birthday you old pirate you!

Okay everyone... smile!

Hanging out with the Vacaville crowd

Christmas in June

Pearl of the Adriatic

2007-06-18T02:07:00.000+02:00

When people ask me what my favorite place in Europe is, it's always hard to say... every place we've been is so unique and it is really hard to compare. When I ask other people, Croatia always seems to fall on the top of their lists, so I figured we better check out this little part of the world next to the shimmering Adriatic for ourselves.

Our destination was the Dalmatian Coast, but we had to get there first... It's expensive to fly from Geneva to anywhere in Croatia, but I was determined to find a deal. We ended up getting there via three flights (yes, three!) first to Munich, then Zagreb, then to Split, where we were to rent a car for the four hour drive to Dubrovnik. It sounds like a lot, but it saved us about $500, so it was worth it. Unfortunately, as our plane was pushing back from the gate, G gazed out the window and noticed two bags still sitting on the luggage carrier… OUR BAGS!! We had to get re-ticketed and somehow our bags did not. But the trip must go on and eventually we were in Split.

After reporting our bags missing and arranging for them to be sent down to Dubrovnik, we were soon headed down the scenic coast road. The drive was slow going (there are no freeways or trains that serve the south of the country), but it was beautiful! After such a long day we were thrilled to find that our hotel was right by the beach, with breathtaking views of Lapad Bay. Our first order of business was to buy some toiletries, a swimsuit, and a pair of flip flops! All I wanted to do was brush my teeth and get some warm-weather clothes on (we had to make due until our bags arrived). We then had a great dinner right on the water and just relaxed.

The next day we decided to take a little drive further down the coast to Montenegro. It may seem strange that we worked so hard to get to this relaxing part of Croatia just to hop over to another country, but we had heard that the Bay of Kotor was even more beautiful than the Dalmatian coast and we were only an hour away! The drive was stunning and with our self-guided driving tour we had a great time learning all about the area. The coolest thing I saw was the island of Our Lady of the Rocks. The island was created by seamen dropping rocks into the 65-foot-deep bay in the spot where a light had been seen coming from the water… flash forward 500 years and voila, you have yourself a new island!

Montenegro (like Croatia was once part of Yugoslavia) is Europe's youngest nation; we missed the one year anniversary by just five days. The Bay of Kotor is ruggedly beautiful with dramatic scenery and is crowned with the Old World town of Kotor. The town in butted up against a steep cliff and surrounded by one of the most elaborate city walls in Europe. After lunch we hiked up along the walls to a church that sits high above the city and were rewarded with some amazing views.

Back in Croatia, we were determined to have a relaxing time, and we spent the rest of the time enjoying the bay around our hotel and exploring the city of Dubrovnik. We still had no luggage, but we didn’t care… we were so happy to be wrapped up in the charm of this old city. The city is amazing. It is hard to imagine that just 15 years ago it was devastated by war, but you would hardly notice it now… the only physical sign of all the past destruction is the numerous new orange roof tiles you see while strolling along the city wall. This “Pearl of the Adriatic” really lives up to its name. We really loved our time here!

The best part of our third day in Croatia was that our bags finally showed up… three days into our four day trip and one hour before we were to check out of our hotel in Dubrovnik. That gave us just enough time to take a shower and put on some fresh clothes. The guy at the desk said we were the happiest people he had ever seen that had lost luggage. Well, you can either laugh or cry, right?

On our last full day we were headed back up the coast to Split where we were to catch our flight home. It was a four hour drive back along the coast, and on the way I realized that we would be within a half hour from town of Mostar, Bosnia. I dropped the question as subtly as I could… “So dear, how about stopping into Bosnia for lunch?”

Yes, I know what you are thinking… Bosnia?!? G had about the same reaction! He was dead set on not setting foot into this war-torn country, so if I wanted to go I had some convincing to do. After about an hour of reading cheery things from our guidebook, I had set his mind at ease and we were headed over the boarder.

Mostar is stunning, with an amazing mix of Muslim, Catholic, and Orthodox all living together. But it is also a startling view of how real and destructive war can be. On the half hour drive from the boarder to the Old City the signs of war were everywhere. About 1/3 of the buildings were bombed out and we saw few signs of recovery.

Even in Mostar itself, there were burned out husks of buildings and bullet holes everywhere, but the city is slowly being rebuilt, especially in the heart of the Old Town. The most moving reminder of this is the Old Bridge (Stari Most) that was originally built in 1557 and survived many assaults, including ones from the Second World War. But in November of 1993 the bridge fell during a bombing raid from the Croats. After the war it was decided to rebuild it using the old techniques and using stone from the original quarry. In July 2004 the bridge was complete and it is now one of the most inspiring sights in Europe. I feel lucky to have walked across it.

After lunch, a little sightseeing and some shopping, we were on our way to Croatia once again. We drove into Split and despite having our hotel in a very convenient location right by the harbor; it was a nightmare to drive into! Once we were finally on the right side of town, we spent half the evening trying to find a suitable parking spot. It was a bit of big-city-shock after the quaintness of the Southern coast. Although there is a lot of ugly urban sprawl that surrounds the atmospheric Old Town, it was still nice to get the chance to explore the town before heading back home.

We really liked Croatia (despite the lost luggage and the rain) and now I can easily say it is one of my favorite places in Europe.

Our favorite bar in Dubrovnik

The view of Lapad Bay from our hotel

Cathedral of Saint Tryphon in Kotor

Climbing up the city wall above Kotor

We climbed to the Church of our Lady of Health high above Kotor

Crossing the Old Bridge in Mostar

A view of the Old Bridge in Mostar

War damage in Mostar

In the rain in Split

The bell tower of the Cathedral of St. Dominus in Split

The Hills are Alive

2007-06-01T10:35:00.000+02:00

Another year has passed since our wedding and another anniversary was upon us (still hard to believe it has been two whole years!) The traditional two year wedding anniversary gift is cotton, but I got G paper instead... paper tickets! I wanted to surprise him, and since we had a four day weekend (I think it was ascension weekend), we had the time to head out of town for a few days. He had no idea where we were off to, although he narrowed the possibilities down to the Nordics, Budapest, Normandy, or Austria. I took him to the train station pretending to be catching a train to the airport, but when we got on a train headed east (and away from the airport), he realized we were headed to the land of Mozart and tasty strudel.

Gary had been keen on going to Austria for some time now. His brother and his wife visited here a few years ago and raved about the little Austrian village of Hallstatt and G has been asking me when we are going for months. I wanted to wait for good weather and I figured why not surprise him? The plan was to spend a couple days in Salzburg and then head to Hallstatt for the remaining of our long weekend.

We arrived in Salzburg to pouring rain! So much for planning for the good weather. We sloshed around town and I ended up eating a dinner of too-raw pork which I started to worry about when we got back to the hotel... what are the signs of trichinosis anyway?!? Needless to say, our romantic holiday weekend could have started off a bit better, but the weekend was still young.

The next day the sun came out and we took advantage of all the fun things to do in the nearby Salzburger Land. We spent the morning at the Berchtesgaden salt mines where we put on traditional miner's outfits, hopped on an underground train and zipped deep into the mountain. We sped down long wooden slides and cruised an underground lake. The tour was very cool, but we were gearing up for even more excitement. In the afternoon we went to The Zinkenlifte Bad Dürrnberg luge ride, which is the longest luge in Austria. It was great... speeding down the mountain on a little sled attached to a long track. It was too bad we only had time for one ride (which lasted about 15 minutes), we had to get back to Salzburg to catch the train to Hallstatt.

It was about 4:30 when I approached the ticket window at the Salzburg train station, still pretty early in the day I thought. But I was informed that we were too late to go to Hallstatt! It turns out that the Hallstatt train station is across the lake from the town and the last boat runs at 6pm which we had already missed! Unbelievable!! We had hotel reservations and I wasn't about to let this little snag hold us up. I ran out to the bus terminal and got us tickets to Bad Ischl, about 10 miles away from our destination. From there we took the last train to the village of Obertraun, just across the lake from Hallstatt, but still about a 6km walk. We arranged to get a ride from the only taxi in town, just in time to eat dinner at our amazing, old, waterfront hotel, Bräugasthof, which used to be a brewery. Dinner was scrumptious, but I think a big part of that was just the relief that we had made it to town!

The charming village of Hallstatt did not disappoint! Nestled in Austria's Lake District, we were surrounded by forested mountains, pristine views, and one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen. It is the perfect place to slow down, relax and just take it all in. No one is in a rush, there are cute shops and cozy little places to grab a bite to eat or relax with a refreshing drink. We were blessed with beautiful weather too, which made the gray of Salzburg seem like a million miles away.

One of the unique sights of the area are the Eishöhle Ice Caves across the lake. We took the Dachstein Mountain Cable Car which took us up the Salzkammergut Mountain where we hiked up to the mouth of the ice caves. It was really amazing. The subterranean ice fills the mountain and stays frozen all year, creating huge caverns carved from the ice and water that flows here. The hour-long tour was chilly, but it was one of the coolest (no pun intended) sights I have ever seen. We walked the 6km back to our side of the lake which warmed us right up!

I was surprised to learn of the town’s ancient history, it was founded long before Rome. Archeological finds date back as old as 5000 BC. Ancient miners were drawn here for the rich salt mines. The period of history from 1000 BC to 500 BC is actually referred to as the 'Hallstatt Period'. With all this history, we decided to explore the local mine. Yes, another salt mine tour, but this one was supposed to be better... and it was!

But the best part of the trip for me was the relaxed atmosphere and friendly people we met. Each morning everyone we saw would greet us with a cheery "Morgen!" to start the day. I loved this! We ate traditional meals right on the banks of the lake, sipping beer and enjoying each other's company. It was good we didn't know what we were in for trying to get home the next day!

Things started out fine, we caught our first train (the first of 4 trains we would have to catch back to Geneva), but things soon turned for the worse. We were forced to get off the train early due to work being done on the tracks. We were told to get on a bus, but we had no idea which bus, or where to, or even where we were! No one spoke English in the little village we were stuck in, and we narrowly got on the wrong bus a couple different times. After over an hour, a nice bilingual guy heading to Zurich helped us (and a couple of other lost mono-lingual tourists) out. We had to run to catch almost every connection and we narrowly made the last train back to Geneva. It was a bit stressful, but I would do it all over again to get back to that little piece of paradise in the Austrian hills.

Rainy Salzburg

Salzburg salt mine tour

Headed down Austria's longest luge track!

Picture perfect Hallstatt

The lakefront street our hotel was on

The view from our hotel balcony onto Hallstattersee Lake

A view inside the ice caves

The Hallstatt salt mine tour, where we were clocked at 28km/hour sliding down the traditional wood miner slide (only the guide beat our time)

Schmuck & Boote - German for "Jewelry" and "Boat", but I still like saying Schmuck and Bootie ;)

Even the churchyard was picture perfect!

A slower pace of life

My favorite place for a bite by the lake

Caves Ouvertes

2007-05-31T10:34:00.000+02:00

Spring is in the air and the day of the Open Caves (or Caves Ouvertes in French) was upon us. It was the day that over 100 wineries in the Geneva area were open for free wine tasting. I had missed this annual event last year because I thought it was the start of the wine tasting season, not just a single day... this year I knew better and was sure to be in town for this big event.

A group of us met up and took the little regional train out to the Geneva countryside to "discover the subtle bouquet of the different grape varieties of the Geneva vineyards." We had such a great day - the wine was flowing and we ran into so many familiar faces while we wandered through the vineyards from village to village. I can't quite remember all the different wines we tasted, but they were delicious. Our friends who were about to move to Colorado even managed to sell their car in the midst of the festivities!

We bought a few bottles to help support the local wineries and ate our share of the scrumptious cheeses that were passed out at the testings. After shutting down the last winery (they had to ask us for their glasses back!) we stopped by our favorite bar ("the no-name bar") for a couple more drinks before dinner. Needless to say, we slept in the next day and took it easy. We love to travel, but there is nothing like a lazy weekend in Geneva with good friends! Sante!! -- To your health!

The start of a great day

Wine tasting under a shady tent

Those scrumptious Geneva vines

Our final winery

They sold the car!

More wine with dinner? Sure!