Pearl of the Adriatic
When people ask me what my favorite place in Europe is, it's always hard to say... every place we've been is so unique and it is really hard to compare. When I ask other people, Croatia always seems to fall on the top of their lists, so I figured we better check out this little part of the world next to the shimmering Adriatic for ourselves.
Our destination was the Dalmatian Coast, but we had to get there first... It's expensive to fly from Geneva to anywhere in Croatia, but I was determined to find a deal. We ended up getting there via three flights (yes, three!) first to Munich, then Zagreb, then to Split, where we were to rent a car for the four hour drive to Dubrovnik. It sounds like a lot, but it saved us about $500, so it was worth it. Unfortunately, as our plane was pushing back from the gate, G gazed out the window and noticed two bags still sitting on the luggage carrier… OUR BAGS!! We had to get re-ticketed and somehow our bags did not. But the trip must go on and eventually we were in Split.
After reporting our bags missing and arranging for them to be sent down to Dubrovnik, we were soon headed down the scenic coast road. The drive was slow going (there are no freeways or trains that serve the south of the country), but it was beautiful! After such a long day we were thrilled to find that our hotel was right by the beach, with breathtaking views of Lapad Bay. Our first order of business was to buy some toiletries, a swimsuit, and a pair of flip flops! All I wanted to do was brush my teeth and get some warm-weather clothes on (we had to make due until our bags arrived). We then had a great dinner right on the water and just relaxed.
The next day we decided to take a little drive further down the coast to Montenegro. It may seem strange that we worked so hard to get to this relaxing part of Croatia just to hop over to another country, but we had heard that the Bay of Kotor was even more beautiful than the Dalmatian coast and we were only an hour away! The drive was stunning and with our self-guided driving tour we had a great time learning all about the area. The coolest thing I saw was the island of Our Lady of the Rocks. The island was created by seamen dropping rocks into the 65-foot-deep bay in the spot where a light had been seen coming from the water… flash forward 500 years and voila, you have yourself a new island!
Montenegro (like Croatia was once part of Yugoslavia) is Europe's youngest nation; we missed the one year anniversary by just five days. The Bay of Kotor is ruggedly beautiful with dramatic scenery and is crowned with the Old World town of Kotor. The town in butted up against a steep cliff and surrounded by one of the most elaborate city walls in Europe. After lunch we hiked up along the walls to a church that sits high above the city and were rewarded with some amazing views.
Back in Croatia, we were determined to have a relaxing time, and we spent the rest of the time enjoying the bay around our hotel and exploring the city of Dubrovnik. We still had no luggage, but we didn’t care… we were so happy to be wrapped up in the charm of this old city. The city is amazing. It is hard to imagine that just 15 years ago it was devastated by war, but you would hardly notice it now… the only physical sign of all the past destruction is the numerous new orange roof tiles you see while strolling along the city wall. This “Pearl of the Adriatic” really lives up to its name. We really loved our time here!
The best part of our third day in Croatia was that our bags finally showed up… three days into our four day trip and one hour before we were to check out of our hotel in Dubrovnik. That gave us just enough time to take a shower and put on some fresh clothes. The guy at the desk said we were the happiest people he had ever seen that had lost luggage. Well, you can either laugh or cry, right?
On our last full day we were headed back up the coast to Split where we were to catch our flight home. It was a four hour drive back along the coast, and on the way I realized that we would be within a half hour from town of Mostar, Bosnia. I dropped the question as subtly as I could… “So dear, how about stopping into Bosnia for lunch?”
Yes, I know what you are thinking… Bosnia?!? G had about the same reaction! He was dead set on not setting foot into this war-torn country, so if I wanted to go I had some convincing to do. After about an hour of reading cheery things from our guidebook, I had set his mind at ease and we were headed over the boarder.
Mostar is stunning, with an amazing mix of Muslim, Catholic, and Orthodox all living together. But it is also a startling view of how real and destructive war can be. On the half hour drive from the boarder to the Old City the signs of war were everywhere. About 1/3 of the buildings were bombed out and we saw few signs of recovery.
Even in Mostar itself, there were burned out husks of buildings and bullet holes everywhere, but the city is slowly being rebuilt, especially in the heart of the Old Town. The most moving reminder of this is the Old Bridge (Stari Most) that was originally built in 1557 and survived many assaults, including ones from the Second World War. But in November of 1993 the bridge fell during a bombing raid from the Croats. After the war it was decided to rebuild it using the old techniques and using stone from the original quarry. In July 2004 the bridge was complete and it is now one of the most inspiring sights in Europe. I feel lucky to have walked across it.
After lunch, a little sightseeing and some shopping, we were on our way to Croatia once again. We drove into Split and despite having our hotel in a very convenient location right by the harbor; it was a nightmare to drive into! Once we were finally on the right side of town, we spent half the evening trying to find a suitable parking spot. It was a bit of big-city-shock after the quaintness of the Southern coast. Although there is a lot of ugly urban sprawl that surrounds the atmospheric Old Town, it was still nice to get the chance to explore the town before heading back home.
We really liked Croatia (despite the lost luggage and the rain) and now I can easily say it is one of my favorite places in Europe.
Our favorite bar in Dubrovnik
The view of Lapad Bay from our hotel
Cathedral of Saint Tryphon in Kotor
Climbing up the city wall above Kotor
We climbed to the Church of our Lady of Health high above Kotor
Crossing the Old Bridge in Mostar
A view of the Old Bridge in Mostar
War damage in Mostar
In the rain in Split
The bell tower of the Cathedral of St. Dominus in Split
Our destination was the Dalmatian Coast, but we had to get there first... It's expensive to fly from Geneva to anywhere in Croatia, but I was determined to find a deal. We ended up getting there via three flights (yes, three!) first to Munich, then Zagreb, then to Split, where we were to rent a car for the four hour drive to Dubrovnik. It sounds like a lot, but it saved us about $500, so it was worth it. Unfortunately, as our plane was pushing back from the gate, G gazed out the window and noticed two bags still sitting on the luggage carrier… OUR BAGS!! We had to get re-ticketed and somehow our bags did not. But the trip must go on and eventually we were in Split.
After reporting our bags missing and arranging for them to be sent down to Dubrovnik, we were soon headed down the scenic coast road. The drive was slow going (there are no freeways or trains that serve the south of the country), but it was beautiful! After such a long day we were thrilled to find that our hotel was right by the beach, with breathtaking views of Lapad Bay. Our first order of business was to buy some toiletries, a swimsuit, and a pair of flip flops! All I wanted to do was brush my teeth and get some warm-weather clothes on (we had to make due until our bags arrived). We then had a great dinner right on the water and just relaxed.
The next day we decided to take a little drive further down the coast to Montenegro. It may seem strange that we worked so hard to get to this relaxing part of Croatia just to hop over to another country, but we had heard that the Bay of Kotor was even more beautiful than the Dalmatian coast and we were only an hour away! The drive was stunning and with our self-guided driving tour we had a great time learning all about the area. The coolest thing I saw was the island of Our Lady of the Rocks. The island was created by seamen dropping rocks into the 65-foot-deep bay in the spot where a light had been seen coming from the water… flash forward 500 years and voila, you have yourself a new island!
Montenegro (like Croatia was once part of Yugoslavia) is Europe's youngest nation; we missed the one year anniversary by just five days. The Bay of Kotor is ruggedly beautiful with dramatic scenery and is crowned with the Old World town of Kotor. The town in butted up against a steep cliff and surrounded by one of the most elaborate city walls in Europe. After lunch we hiked up along the walls to a church that sits high above the city and were rewarded with some amazing views.
Back in Croatia, we were determined to have a relaxing time, and we spent the rest of the time enjoying the bay around our hotel and exploring the city of Dubrovnik. We still had no luggage, but we didn’t care… we were so happy to be wrapped up in the charm of this old city. The city is amazing. It is hard to imagine that just 15 years ago it was devastated by war, but you would hardly notice it now… the only physical sign of all the past destruction is the numerous new orange roof tiles you see while strolling along the city wall. This “Pearl of the Adriatic” really lives up to its name. We really loved our time here!
The best part of our third day in Croatia was that our bags finally showed up… three days into our four day trip and one hour before we were to check out of our hotel in Dubrovnik. That gave us just enough time to take a shower and put on some fresh clothes. The guy at the desk said we were the happiest people he had ever seen that had lost luggage. Well, you can either laugh or cry, right?
On our last full day we were headed back up the coast to Split where we were to catch our flight home. It was a four hour drive back along the coast, and on the way I realized that we would be within a half hour from town of Mostar, Bosnia. I dropped the question as subtly as I could… “So dear, how about stopping into Bosnia for lunch?”
Yes, I know what you are thinking… Bosnia?!? G had about the same reaction! He was dead set on not setting foot into this war-torn country, so if I wanted to go I had some convincing to do. After about an hour of reading cheery things from our guidebook, I had set his mind at ease and we were headed over the boarder.
Mostar is stunning, with an amazing mix of Muslim, Catholic, and Orthodox all living together. But it is also a startling view of how real and destructive war can be. On the half hour drive from the boarder to the Old City the signs of war were everywhere. About 1/3 of the buildings were bombed out and we saw few signs of recovery.
Even in Mostar itself, there were burned out husks of buildings and bullet holes everywhere, but the city is slowly being rebuilt, especially in the heart of the Old Town. The most moving reminder of this is the Old Bridge (Stari Most) that was originally built in 1557 and survived many assaults, including ones from the Second World War. But in November of 1993 the bridge fell during a bombing raid from the Croats. After the war it was decided to rebuild it using the old techniques and using stone from the original quarry. In July 2004 the bridge was complete and it is now one of the most inspiring sights in Europe. I feel lucky to have walked across it.
After lunch, a little sightseeing and some shopping, we were on our way to Croatia once again. We drove into Split and despite having our hotel in a very convenient location right by the harbor; it was a nightmare to drive into! Once we were finally on the right side of town, we spent half the evening trying to find a suitable parking spot. It was a bit of big-city-shock after the quaintness of the Southern coast. Although there is a lot of ugly urban sprawl that surrounds the atmospheric Old Town, it was still nice to get the chance to explore the town before heading back home.
We really liked Croatia (despite the lost luggage and the rain) and now I can easily say it is one of my favorite places in Europe.
Our favorite bar in Dubrovnik
The view of Lapad Bay from our hotel
Cathedral of Saint Tryphon in Kotor
Climbing up the city wall above Kotor
We climbed to the Church of our Lady of Health high above Kotor
Crossing the Old Bridge in Mostar
A view of the Old Bridge in Mostar
War damage in Mostar
In the rain in Split
The bell tower of the Cathedral of St. Dominus in Split
posted by Swiss Miss | 02:07
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