Ciao Italia!
After wrapping up her work in Basel, Babs was on her way to Geneva to meet up with me and start our trip to Italy! We had a week of fun in the sun planned and a pretty packed agenda... Lugano (which is actually in Switzerland), Lake Como, Cinque Terra, Pisa, and last but not least, Florence! We got an early start Wednesday morning so not to waste a single minute on our grand tour.
Our first stop was Lugano, which I had heard so many good things about. Sitting on the shores of Lake Lugano, this Swiss town has an Italian flavor, but we found that there wasn't too much to see or do once you got through the main shopping streets. We opted for a boat cruise around the lake, but that turned out to be a very cold venture. It was a bit late in the year for capri pants and paddle boating (they looked fun, but they seemed to be tied up for the season), but I really didn't think it would be as cold as it was. The boat was out for about one and a half hours and by the time we got back all I wanted was a hot chocolate and a big bowl of soup! I hate to say it, but after one day I was ready to go, which happily was the plan anyway.
The next morning we were to catch a bus to the town of Menaggio, Italy on Lake Como. The guidebook made it sound easy, only a 12 mile ride and we would be there. When we finally found the bus terminal (which was way harder than it should have been), the lady at the ticket window asked if we had reservations. Uh, no. A phone call was made (while I was sweating bullets... how was I supposed to know we needed reservations for a BUS?!?) and then, after a few long minutes we were given the okay to buy tickets. Sheew - that was close! The funny thing was... when we got on the huge bus there were like four other people on it!!
Our 12 mile bus ride turned into an hour and a half windy hair-pin turn trek over a pretty mountainous region. At one point the bus had to back up for about two blocks up a hill to let a huge truck by. It was a bit nerve-rattling, but we made it. From Menaggio we had to take a boat across Lake Como to the tiny harbor town of Varenna where we were staying. The town was SO cute, but not roller-suitcase friendly with narrow, bumpy stone walkways and lots of very steep steps. It was a struggle to get to the hotel, but we were well rewarded once there. We had a great room overlooking the lake and we had the only room with a balcony!
But we weren't here to hang out at the hotel; we were soon off to explore the beautiful area we were staying in. After a relaxing lake-side lunch (and a much anticipated cappuccino) we hiked about a half hour up the hill from our hotel to the Castle of Vezio (Castello di Vezio). The views of the lake were breathtaking; the day couldn't have been nicer. We were even lucky enough to watch a falconer do his bird of prey training demonstration in the garden of the castle.
For dinner we decided to take the ferry across the lake to the town of Bellagio, the "Pearl of the Lake". This was definitely the most posh town on Lake Como, which made window shopping and people watching fun. Somehow we stumbled across one of the most popular restaurants in town and snagged the last outside table. The food was absolutely delicious and within about a half hour of sitting down, the wait for a table was enormous. At the height, there were over 18 people sitting on the steps outside the restaurant waiting to get in.
But we still had some surprises left that evening. After walking off our dinner we caught the ferry back to Varenna. There weren't very many passengers on the ferry, but we were still surprised when one of the guys who worked on the boat started chatting with us. Soon he invited us up to the bridge where we met the Capitan of the boat. Next thing we know they are teaching us how to drive the ferry across the lake!! It was really cool; we actually drove a good portion of the way back to Varenna. Of course we didn't leave without taking photos with our new friends.
The next day we were headed to Cinque Terra (via Milan) to meet G for a weekend of sun, sea, and sand. We were staying in Monterosso (where J and I stayed last summer), the largest and northern-most town of the five (cinque) villages that make up this area in the Italian Rivera. Even though we were passed the height of the tourist season on the coast, it was still packed with sun worshipers. On our first day we struggled to find a spot to fit all three of us on the public beach, but we were determined to catch some rays and relax (although we were squished between a group of hyper college girls and a boat rental place that kept stealing our sun). But nothing could dampen our mood, even a not-so-good Margarita that Babs ordered at the beach bar (hey, we were in Italy after all!) ;)
Besides the beach, the big draws are the wonderful towns themselves and the best way to explore them is by way of the wonderful 7-mile hiking trail that connects all the villages. The hike takes about 4-5 hours, but of course you have to make time for lunch, shopping, gelato, and a dip in the Mediterranean. The hike was pretty hot, even for this time of the year so we started early, grabbing breakfast in the second town, Vernazza. The hike was fantastic; we ate lunch in Corniglia, had gelato in Manarola, and swam in the sea in Riomaggiore. At the end of the day, we caught the last boat back to our home town (we weren't about to walk back!)
We had earned a well-deserved lazy day at the beach, and that is just what we did all day Sunday. Our train wasn't until almost five in the evening, so we had nothing to do but lounge around and relax. Unfortunately, G had to head back to Geneva, but Babs and I were on our way to Tuscany, and we were staying in the heart of it all in Florence.
There was so much to see and do in Florence itself, but there was also a lot to see in the outlying areas too. About a half hour from Florence is Pisa. While it is a bit touristy, I feel it's a must see for the Field of Miracles (where the Leaning Tower, Cathedral, & Baptistery are located). Unlike on the coast, in Tuscany it was the height of the tourist season, which turned out to be a bit of trouble for us. To climb the Leaning Tower (which no trip to Pisa is complete without), you need a reservation and we couldn't get one until the next day, so we booked it and decided to return then. Back in Florence we went on an evening walking tour (complete with wine tasting) and a great dinner at one of my favorite Florence restaurants (Osteria del Porcellino). We were strolling around town and came across a couple of really good street musicians. We stayed and listened (along with a huge crowd) for about an hour and we even ended up buying their CD.
The next day we were back in Pisa, but not before some daytime Florence sightseeing and shopping. We were staying right by an open air market that sold just about anything you can imagine, very tempting! Back in Pisa we finally got to climb the Tower (you can really feel the 85 degree angle as you climb). We were also treated to a brief musical duo at the Baptistery, which is a huge building that was also built as a musical instrument. A couple of ladies came in, shushed everyone up, and then started singing in the center of the 180-foot tall room. It was amazing, their voices echoed all around and it was lovely, although a bit haunting too. Back in Florence we had another fabulous dinner at another of my favorite restaurants, Trattoria Zà-Zà.
Of all the times I've been to Florence (this is my fifth visit), I have never been out in the Tuscany countryside. So this trip we signed up for "A Perfect Morning in Tuscany" tour that took us to some wonderful little villages (Fiesole & Settignano) in the country around Florence where we hiked to private Renaissance Villas (most beautiful was Villa di Maiano where "A Room with a View" and "Tea with Mussolini" were filmed). We ate lunch overlooking the rolling Tuscany hillsides at Fattoria di Maiano, a villa that specializes in virgin olive oil grown from some of the oldest olive orchards in Italy (of course I came home with a bottle!)
We were set to fly back to Geneva that evening, but there was still time for some more Florence sightseeing and shopping. Babs went to the Accademia to see Michelangelo's David (my favorite sculpture) and I perused the shops. But I was feeling a bit under the weather and by the time we got to the airport I was sick as a dog! It came on so suddenly, but I was happy it was towards the end of Babs’ trip and not at the beginning. We flew on a little Swiss carrier called FlyBaboo, which has a fleet of small planes (our plane sat about 50) and they serve some tasty food for free which is a rarity these days on short-haul flights.
The next day Babs was flying back to California (business class baby!). We spent the morning touring around Geneva and buying last minute gifts for her people back home. At the airport I was impressed with her skills at passport control where she managed to get a Swiss stamp (I've only gotten one in the two years I've been here!) I had such a great time over the last week and a half, but it really flew by!! I couldn't believe it was over so soon. Hopefully there will be another inspection in Switzerland she will have to fly out for in the next few months, before our time here in Europe is through (for now at least).
Old Town Lugano
Having fun at the Castello di Vezio
View of Lake Como from the Castello di Vezio
Eating at one of the most popular restaurants in Bellagio (just before the crowds arrived)
Driving the ferry back to Varenna
Hiking through the Cinque Terra
The view hiking into Vernazza
We found a shady spot (not so good for taking pictures, but good for beating the heat!)
Taking a dip in the Mediterranean
Holding up the Leaning Tower of Pisa
On top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa
Dinner in Florence at Osteria del Porcellino
In one of the oldest olive orchards in Italy
Our first stop was Lugano, which I had heard so many good things about. Sitting on the shores of Lake Lugano, this Swiss town has an Italian flavor, but we found that there wasn't too much to see or do once you got through the main shopping streets. We opted for a boat cruise around the lake, but that turned out to be a very cold venture. It was a bit late in the year for capri pants and paddle boating (they looked fun, but they seemed to be tied up for the season), but I really didn't think it would be as cold as it was. The boat was out for about one and a half hours and by the time we got back all I wanted was a hot chocolate and a big bowl of soup! I hate to say it, but after one day I was ready to go, which happily was the plan anyway.
The next morning we were to catch a bus to the town of Menaggio, Italy on Lake Como. The guidebook made it sound easy, only a 12 mile ride and we would be there. When we finally found the bus terminal (which was way harder than it should have been), the lady at the ticket window asked if we had reservations. Uh, no. A phone call was made (while I was sweating bullets... how was I supposed to know we needed reservations for a BUS?!?) and then, after a few long minutes we were given the okay to buy tickets. Sheew - that was close! The funny thing was... when we got on the huge bus there were like four other people on it!!
Our 12 mile bus ride turned into an hour and a half windy hair-pin turn trek over a pretty mountainous region. At one point the bus had to back up for about two blocks up a hill to let a huge truck by. It was a bit nerve-rattling, but we made it. From Menaggio we had to take a boat across Lake Como to the tiny harbor town of Varenna where we were staying. The town was SO cute, but not roller-suitcase friendly with narrow, bumpy stone walkways and lots of very steep steps. It was a struggle to get to the hotel, but we were well rewarded once there. We had a great room overlooking the lake and we had the only room with a balcony!
But we weren't here to hang out at the hotel; we were soon off to explore the beautiful area we were staying in. After a relaxing lake-side lunch (and a much anticipated cappuccino) we hiked about a half hour up the hill from our hotel to the Castle of Vezio (Castello di Vezio). The views of the lake were breathtaking; the day couldn't have been nicer. We were even lucky enough to watch a falconer do his bird of prey training demonstration in the garden of the castle.
For dinner we decided to take the ferry across the lake to the town of Bellagio, the "Pearl of the Lake". This was definitely the most posh town on Lake Como, which made window shopping and people watching fun. Somehow we stumbled across one of the most popular restaurants in town and snagged the last outside table. The food was absolutely delicious and within about a half hour of sitting down, the wait for a table was enormous. At the height, there were over 18 people sitting on the steps outside the restaurant waiting to get in.
But we still had some surprises left that evening. After walking off our dinner we caught the ferry back to Varenna. There weren't very many passengers on the ferry, but we were still surprised when one of the guys who worked on the boat started chatting with us. Soon he invited us up to the bridge where we met the Capitan of the boat. Next thing we know they are teaching us how to drive the ferry across the lake!! It was really cool; we actually drove a good portion of the way back to Varenna. Of course we didn't leave without taking photos with our new friends.
The next day we were headed to Cinque Terra (via Milan) to meet G for a weekend of sun, sea, and sand. We were staying in Monterosso (where J and I stayed last summer), the largest and northern-most town of the five (cinque) villages that make up this area in the Italian Rivera. Even though we were passed the height of the tourist season on the coast, it was still packed with sun worshipers. On our first day we struggled to find a spot to fit all three of us on the public beach, but we were determined to catch some rays and relax (although we were squished between a group of hyper college girls and a boat rental place that kept stealing our sun). But nothing could dampen our mood, even a not-so-good Margarita that Babs ordered at the beach bar (hey, we were in Italy after all!) ;)
Besides the beach, the big draws are the wonderful towns themselves and the best way to explore them is by way of the wonderful 7-mile hiking trail that connects all the villages. The hike takes about 4-5 hours, but of course you have to make time for lunch, shopping, gelato, and a dip in the Mediterranean. The hike was pretty hot, even for this time of the year so we started early, grabbing breakfast in the second town, Vernazza. The hike was fantastic; we ate lunch in Corniglia, had gelato in Manarola, and swam in the sea in Riomaggiore. At the end of the day, we caught the last boat back to our home town (we weren't about to walk back!)
We had earned a well-deserved lazy day at the beach, and that is just what we did all day Sunday. Our train wasn't until almost five in the evening, so we had nothing to do but lounge around and relax. Unfortunately, G had to head back to Geneva, but Babs and I were on our way to Tuscany, and we were staying in the heart of it all in Florence.
There was so much to see and do in Florence itself, but there was also a lot to see in the outlying areas too. About a half hour from Florence is Pisa. While it is a bit touristy, I feel it's a must see for the Field of Miracles (where the Leaning Tower, Cathedral, & Baptistery are located). Unlike on the coast, in Tuscany it was the height of the tourist season, which turned out to be a bit of trouble for us. To climb the Leaning Tower (which no trip to Pisa is complete without), you need a reservation and we couldn't get one until the next day, so we booked it and decided to return then. Back in Florence we went on an evening walking tour (complete with wine tasting) and a great dinner at one of my favorite Florence restaurants (Osteria del Porcellino). We were strolling around town and came across a couple of really good street musicians. We stayed and listened (along with a huge crowd) for about an hour and we even ended up buying their CD.
The next day we were back in Pisa, but not before some daytime Florence sightseeing and shopping. We were staying right by an open air market that sold just about anything you can imagine, very tempting! Back in Pisa we finally got to climb the Tower (you can really feel the 85 degree angle as you climb). We were also treated to a brief musical duo at the Baptistery, which is a huge building that was also built as a musical instrument. A couple of ladies came in, shushed everyone up, and then started singing in the center of the 180-foot tall room. It was amazing, their voices echoed all around and it was lovely, although a bit haunting too. Back in Florence we had another fabulous dinner at another of my favorite restaurants, Trattoria Zà-Zà.
Of all the times I've been to Florence (this is my fifth visit), I have never been out in the Tuscany countryside. So this trip we signed up for "A Perfect Morning in Tuscany" tour that took us to some wonderful little villages (Fiesole & Settignano) in the country around Florence where we hiked to private Renaissance Villas (most beautiful was Villa di Maiano where "A Room with a View" and "Tea with Mussolini" were filmed). We ate lunch overlooking the rolling Tuscany hillsides at Fattoria di Maiano, a villa that specializes in virgin olive oil grown from some of the oldest olive orchards in Italy (of course I came home with a bottle!)
We were set to fly back to Geneva that evening, but there was still time for some more Florence sightseeing and shopping. Babs went to the Accademia to see Michelangelo's David (my favorite sculpture) and I perused the shops. But I was feeling a bit under the weather and by the time we got to the airport I was sick as a dog! It came on so suddenly, but I was happy it was towards the end of Babs’ trip and not at the beginning. We flew on a little Swiss carrier called FlyBaboo, which has a fleet of small planes (our plane sat about 50) and they serve some tasty food for free which is a rarity these days on short-haul flights.
The next day Babs was flying back to California (business class baby!). We spent the morning touring around Geneva and buying last minute gifts for her people back home. At the airport I was impressed with her skills at passport control where she managed to get a Swiss stamp (I've only gotten one in the two years I've been here!) I had such a great time over the last week and a half, but it really flew by!! I couldn't believe it was over so soon. Hopefully there will be another inspection in Switzerland she will have to fly out for in the next few months, before our time here in Europe is through (for now at least).
Old Town Lugano
Having fun at the Castello di Vezio
View of Lake Como from the Castello di Vezio
Eating at one of the most popular restaurants in Bellagio (just before the crowds arrived)
Driving the ferry back to Varenna
Hiking through the Cinque Terra
The view hiking into Vernazza
We found a shady spot (not so good for taking pictures, but good for beating the heat!)
Taking a dip in the Mediterranean
Holding up the Leaning Tower of Pisa
On top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa
Dinner in Florence at Osteria del Porcellino
In one of the oldest olive orchards in Italy
posted by Swiss Miss | 02:13
2 Comments:
This trip was fantastic! There was so much to do and see and I can't believe we did all that we did. I will never forget my time in Switzerland and Italy... from the top of Europe to the beaches of Cinque Tera and so many climates in between! Thanks so much for being such a great planner, guide and most of all a great friend! I can't wait to come back!
Those are some amazing pics of Lake Como! Did you ever make it to Villa Carlotta? Those gardens mesmerize me every time. There's a nice writeup at lakecomoguide.com
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