Bonjour de la Suisse: ¿Se Habla Japonés?

The Oso (bear) of Madrid (The emblem of the city).

The closed Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, home of Picasso's Guernica. When the museum is closed, it's CLOSED!

Picasso's Guernica

A cute couple in the parade for San Isidro, the Patron Saint of Madrid.

I landed in Madrid late in the evening, very well rested from my 5 days in Fuerteventura. Gary was heading back to Geneva and I was taking the less expensive route home through Spain. My plan was to spend the night and have the entire next day to explore Madrid, then catch the overnight train to Barcelona where I would spend the day until my flight left that evening. Two days on my own, no problem, what could possibly go wrong?!?

I found my hotel with ease, which I had booked a couple of months ago. Upon arrival, the guy at the desk said there was a "slight problem", that MY room had been flooded out when a pipe burst in the wall (how does this keep happening to me?), but not to worry because the "very nice family upstairs" was willing to take me in for the night. "They have been doing this for 30 years," he reassured me, "the only thing is that they speak no English." That was fine (after all I was in Spain!)

He showed me upstairs and a cute little old woman answered the door. I got my own room (with a bathroom - score!) and a lock. It was basic and clean which was all right. It was kind of like staying with a long lost grandmother. She would chat with me in Spanish and I would try to answer her as best I could. I was issued towels that looked like they were about 30 years old with faded flowers on them, but I wouldn't have had it any other way, as it all fit right in with the ambiance of the place.

I went out to dinner and was good not to get back too late (I didn't want to have her waiting up for me!) Dinner was interesting as it was the first time in Europe I have sat down to a meal in a restaurant by myself. I strategically sat outside near other solo travelers and read my guidebook, planning for the next day. I missed Gary, but I was happy that I got over my fear of eating out alone.

The next day was Monday, May 15th. Now, almost anywhere you go in Europe, many of the museums and exhibits are closed on Mondays, so it is never a great day to see things. But in Madrid there were still quite a few places that were scheduled to be open, such as The Royal Palace, El Rastro (Europe's biggest flea market), and (most important to me) Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, which houses Picasso's epic masterpiece, Guernica.

Well, it turns out that THIS Monday was the Fiesta de San Isidro, the celebration of the Patron Saint of Madrid. Everything (and I mean EVERYTHING) was closed. I spent the day walking all over town, seeing the sights through huge steal gates with the hordes of other tourists. It was actually nice to wander, getting a feel for the city and seeing charismatic back streets that I probably wouldn't have seen otherwise.

I wanted to go further a field, so I got on one of those "hop-on-hop-off" tour busses that loop around the city. The only problem was every other tourist in town was doing the same thing, so it took a while to get a seat on the open-air top deck. Once I did have a seat I wasn't going anywhere and sat back to enjoy the view. I plugged my headset in to get a little of the local history, when to my dismay I realized MY audio guide was stuck on the Japanese setting! (Mingle, I could have used your help with this one!)

I rode around town, quite content to make up my own stories about this monument or that building, it was actually kind of fun! I sat down to another solo diner in the lively central square, Plaza Mayor and just as I was finishing a crowd began to gather in front of our outdoor dining area. A parade for San Isidro was marching through the square and I had a front row seat! There was music, floats and everyone was dressed up in traditional outfits. I even got to see the Cardinal of Madrid. This was the start of the real festivities that lasted throughout the evening. I stayed as long as I could, but I had to get across town to catch a train. I was once again off to a new destination... Barcelona.

This was my first overnight train ride and I wasn't quite sure what to expect. To save money I only reserved a seat and not a sleeping compartment (big mistake). I was crammed into a little area with one older Spanish guy and four very young and somewhat obnoxious American guys. I'm against stereotypes, but I can see where some of the "American tourist" ones come from. I made good use of my time and read quite a bit of the book I had brought, The Bonesetter's Daughter and settled in to a restless night speeding across Spain.

I took it easy during my day in Barcelona. Since this was my third visit, I didn't have that crazy urge to see everything and I could really relax and enjoy the city. I had breakfast on Las Rambles, the colorful pedestrian thoroughfare and spent the rest of the day at Parc Guell and the lively La Boqueria Market.

On my way out of town, I picked up my travel pack at the train station and happened upon the completely useless kiosk called "Brief Questions". A friend of mine told me about "Brief Questions" when he spent two months here last summer. He said that if you don't keep your question short, they will simply point to the end of the line and make you wait again (to think about how to restructure your question, I guess!) He was sent to the back of the line several times and when he finally did get an answer, it was brief too. "Where is the Old City?", "Over there.", pointing out of the front of the train station. The entire city is out that door! Thanks for the help!

There is an actual "Information Desk" AND a "Tourist Information" booth, both within about 20 feet of "Brief Questions", so it is a mystery to me. I had to get a picture of this oddity, but as I snapped my camera I got a dirty look and a finger shake from the security guard standing watch... I guess they don't like the publicity.